Chapter 8. 2nd HULL.

 

I have previously shown that I scanned my body with a 3D scanner.
Why do I need it. The whole review is called - "two hulls, one skeleton, the other in full armament (with cladding and sails)."
So, in order not to do the case again, so that later I could completely cover it with a skin, I scanned it. And now I will print it on a 3D printer. I will talk about this in detail, but for now - here is the project for printing after scanning. Later I will show how it was all printed, it is interesting for myself...




18.06.2025


So... the hull is already printed, and yesterday I took it in this state...

Printing, of course, is not as detailed as possible, but this is not the main thing here. And most importantly, the geometry is 1:1 with what I built and it can be sheathed with slats.

Today I glued it to CA gel and sanded it.

And surprisingly, the printed hull is very stable, very rigid and perfectly assembled. That is, there was no error in assembly.

 If you try to bend it with your fingers, then the stiffness feels like with a wooden version. This made me very happy, as did this joint appearance...

And most importantly, as you noticed, I specially made the structure together with the base (slipway cover) and this is necessary for many reasons. Rigidity, accuracy, positioning and compatibility with the existing slipway.

And now I was able to connect a template from the slice kit...


 ... and for now, everything is going according to plan and will continue to be even more interesting... uh...

 

 

01.07.2025

Frames.

 

Or rather... Racks (creating and pasting port racks and railings into plastic hull).
Small changes. I thought this process would be quick, but no.

 A lot of time was spent on marking ports and railing racks. 

 I made one port for the test. I drilled the edges of the port with a 3 mm drill and then made holes along the port slope pillar and connected the holes in one line and polished them a little with a file.

When I saw that everything was working, I made all the markup.

Then cut slots for all railing posts and ports on one side.

It turned out to be not so easy. Plastic is durable and viscous. When drilling, it melted and adhered to the drill.

Then I cut 3x5x20 blanks from black hornbeam and pasted them into the grooves. At the same time, I checked the parallelism with the opposite side with a rail. That is, 3 mm will be the racks of railings and ports, this is their width, and in front and behind I will grind flush with the body.

By the way, many racks according to the set plan did not correspond to the drawings in anatomy. On this case, I corrected this so that the distance between the racks was almost equal, and not so that the racks were at different distances from each other (in inter-port spaces).
Glued everything to the CA gel, they also reinforced the free-standing plastic frames from above.

 Pasted all the racks of black hornbeam. (then there will be pear inserts on the front).

Although the workpiece that ports that posts the railing 2 cm visible will be only 5-6 mm, this is the distance between the upper and lower railings. And therefore, it will be seen from this entire case only this line.

The final chord was the grinding on the outside and inside of these inserts.
At first I was worried that the hornbeam would be difficult to grind and the plastic would grind faster, but no! The plastic turned out to be much stronger and the wood was easily polished along the contour of the case.
Just as simply, he was grinding from the inside. There is no photo, but even there everything is on a par with the body, which was very pleased, so you can safely do the same from the other side.

And plastic did not clog the texture of the tree, rather, on the contrary, black dust from hornbeam was everywhere...

In a word, I am very pleased with the result and you do not pay attention to the texture of the plastic, its leaks, irregularities (and in general, the case is dirty from printing costs), but I repeat... that only a few dozen wooden inserts will be visible from the entire case, and the plastic itself will be all inside under the skin!
So, a start has been made... let's go further!

 

 

05.07.2025

 

Small update with inserts.
Today he finished the opposite side and made the slopes of the cannon ports in front.

 Unlike the railings and ports in the middle section, which are made of black hornbeam, in front these elements will be made of pear. The pear is not ordinary, but its red part, which is usually located in the core of the tree. I really like this color. And since the ports were painted red on a real ship, a pear with a red tint will be just the theme.

 Then I made an element for the anchor rope. It goes through these 2 shangouts, But since these 2 frames are glued together with two parts - I made them whole for convenience, and then I will apply the joints with the blade, and it will seem that there is not one fragment but 4.

After grinding, it all looks like this...

There will still be a black insert in the front in the area of the rope hole, but I will do it later.
And so, a couple more inserts at the back and you can prepare the ship for applying the waterline. This stage is very important and a lot of preparatory points need to be done...
In the meantime, this fragment is already ready for cladding. The only thing is to try not to notice everything that is not made of wood on the case. I understand that it is a little dirty and a lot of unnecessary things, but as a result, everything that does not look very good will either be cleaned or completely blocked by a tree. Therefore, rough backstage - do not take into account in future beauty yet. )))



09.07.2025

 

I have a couple more inserts left to stick in the aft.

 Everything is simple here: I cut off, prepared a detail according to the parameters from the first black hornbeam case, and pasted gel on the CA...
... and polished along the contours of the case. I did it as always with a margin, but only a small part of them will be visualized.

And now, in order to start sheathing the stern (or rather the space under it), I need to adapt the steering gear and make a few more inserts.

In order to then correctly arrange the hole for the steering wheel, and everything else, I began to make the steering wheel itself. As always extracted details...
... sanded them and glued them together.
I will not make the second steering wheel on the second body prefabricated, but I will make an imitation with a blade. Less hassle and the result will be the same, but much faster.
The only thing is that from below I will make this small part on the second steering wheel, since there are fibers across.
Well, I will not make slots for loops, but I will make them overhead (as they should be).
But when I applied the steering gear to the body (simulating the distance between the parts with a tape) I saw what I noticed from other craftsmen who built this model.
Don't you notice what's wrong?
 And the fact that the gap between the parts is directly unrealistic in size. In the free position, it reached 2-3 mm!!! But even there is a strong combination of them, it was still 1.8 mm.
This provided that the loops had to be either shortened or the grooves widened. But I categorically did not want to leave this, despite the fact that the drawings (color illustration above) clearly show that the distance between the steering wheel and the body was negligible.
I pushed the ends of the loops and pushed them deeper, but after that the distance was still 1mm.

And the loops could no longer fit in the grooves, but lay on top. How I decided everything:

 I deepened the grooves in the tree and cut off the excess from the loops, which did not allow them to move deeper.

He also cut off the ends of the loops, since they could already go beyond the limits of the parts. In addition, the anatomy indicates a shape that is not round but slightly cut.

After these manipulations, the distance was reduced to 0.4 mm and it suited me.

 Well, finally - a comparison between the current, how it was and how it became:

Again, I just tried on the loops, since it is not finished either. The loops will still be processed, polished and naturally blackened. My main task was to adapt it all to the hull and continue to work with the second hull.
By the way, I ordered a measuring altimeter for accurate positioning and further work with the skin of the second case. An interesting tool, one might say antiques))) 

 

 

16.07.2025

 

Today I thought that I would show the first experiments and work on preparing pears for cladding, but no...
Today, the whole day made miscalculations and devices for applying KWL (waterline) on the ship.
To be honest, it's very tiring. It's one thing to do everything according to the instructions from the kit, and the second is to calculate and reinvent the wheel... well ok.
So, to apply a waterline, you need to know the two starting points, front and back. In front, starting from the drawings, I transferred it using a temporary keel...

At the back, I just measured with a ruler in a straight line between two points.

Then I had to create a frame to fix the angle of inclination of the case. To do this, I used this tool...

 ... who is more years old than my father... This is "Stangenreismas" made in the country in which I was born and which no longer exists (praise to the gods). I bought it for $25.
So, using this tool, I lifted the back of the case so that the points of the waterline at the back and front were at the same height. To do this, I glued wooden slats on the front...

... first one rack, as a base, and the second glued to it when the front of the ship was exactly at the desired height. I just passively put this rail on the table and it fixed the desired height.
I propped up the back with dumbbell pancakes and similarly glued the base rail, and then 3 supports to it and passively the bottom rail, fixing the height.
There is not much beauty in this, but it accurately and reliably holds the desired angle.

 When everything was ready, I attached a marker to the device and drew a waterline.

This is not the final application of KWL, but rather an introductory one, since when lining with slats, the waterline will be cut out with a scalpel, but more on this later.
Well, so... overall, I'm pleased. I noticed that the conductor, to transfer the cut line of the hull - not symmetrical. I thought the waterline was not applied correctly. But I checked and could not understand why my eye was not satisfied.. But it turns out that the lines from the conductors on the right and left are not the same everywhere...
THEREFORE, the recommendation to all those who will assemble this model is to use one conductor on both sides! You just need to redraw the notes on the back. And if you make everything with one conductor, then the lines on the two sides will be the same. (I'm talking about this conductor, photo below, I have already shown it before).
 Well, here is the result of today... modest, but it just took a lot of time... and all in order to achieve symmetry.
Then I will still try to show you my experiments with oil, bitumen and preparation of rails for cladding, and I will start making a keel for the second case... it will be two-tone at the waterline, like an afterstock and a rudder.
I refused black (above, above the waterline on the keel and steering wheel). There will be two colors, the same as the skin. Above - a light pear, below - dark. Why gave up black... Firstly, I don't really like it and the Latin numbers of the ship's draft will not be visible on black. Plus, the top of the keel, where the main post is fixed, will be for the national team, but more on that later...

 

19.07.2025

 

And more tests. Finding a good pear is a headache. A very important factor is the saw line. If it's not right, the wood grain will be very streaky, which is a defect.

MY TIP NUMBER TWO!

Before attaching the boards to the frame, always make a sample.

That is, cut the slats 2-3 times larger than needed. More is better. Then lay them on a flat surface, securing them at the sides. After that, sand them and coat them with the oil you're planning. Then give them some time and see... after a month, or even longer, you'll be able to choose the ones that look best from all the blanks.

When you cut the slats, be sure to mark them, indicating which side is face up and which is the top, and the order they go in. This is very important so you can lay them out in the same order later, and they won't clash too much.
The photo shows significant color variations that are impossible to correct. These slats are rubbish. After applying Tung Oil, this became even more noticeable.

The second point is sanding. If you leave areas where the surface isn't sanded properly, it will look different.

Here is the result of several days of work... and my disappointment...

And in order:

1st on the left – this pearwood is uniform and dark... I ended up using it for the deck, although I only planned to use it for the dark stripes on the deck.

2nd, 3rd, and 4th on the left – light pearwood for the side up to the waterline. It's not uniform, but there's plenty of it, so (getting ahead) I'll try to select the one that's as uniform in color as possible and doesn't have any diagonal stripes or sharp color transitions. That's what I did.

The dark one in the center – this will be used for the planking below the waterline. Over time, it became more uniform, and after selecting the best, it was enough for the clinker planking.

The light one on the right is the biggest disappointment, since it definitely won't work on the deck with such stripes and unevenness...

A few more words about why I chose tung oil again, even though it takes a long time to dry and the smell lingers... The answer is its color. Compare...

The teak (left) shows patches of glossy film, which often show through when applying the coating (I later realized it was due to the solvent). And like Danish oil, it doesn't really bring out the wood. Linseed oil gives a yellowish tint, while Tung oil produces a slightly reddish-yellowish beige. I like this shade best. But I haven't decided yet. It's better to watch the future tests in this review.

Another wasted day and more disappointment. If the wood is cut incorrectly, it can develop cross-streaks, which are very visible when oiled. And these streaks are impossible to remove. So be careful when choosing a material. And always test it before final gluing.

 And finally – bitumen. Please note: This is not the final version. But it already gives a first impression.



 22.07.2025

 

As I mentioned, I used one template to draw the cutline, because the second (from the opposite side) was slightly different.
I scribbled a groove with the blade, as both the marker and pencil left a large mark, and the blade gave less error.

 Then I'm under magnification (with binoculars, by the way, I constantly work in them, both in dentistry and in a hobby)... fitted a wooden rack to this blade scratch, a kind of plating stop.
Glued these stops only from above on the CA gel, so that later this place was clean after dismantling these stops.
Well, in this way I will glue the slats to the body, repeating the correct bend.

But I can't glue yet, since the dark lining slats are not ready (dry, if they work at all).

 

 

26.07.2025

 

Keel for the second hull, version No. 1.
Depending on the choice of a dark pear below the waterline, a pear will be selected there for the keel. I will share photos of the first version of the keel, although with more confidence I will redo it. But from my mistakes you can learn something.
So the first omission is the combination of these two details.

 

Tip number 1 - start with the most difficult knot and do not cut anything to the sides, leaving a stock of material. When adjusting connections, you will have the opportunity to move the part and then trim everything around the perimeter if the connection is perfectly done.
Tip number 2 - (here I missed it) if there is time and desire - do as it should be according to the drawings. I did as in the photo above, although this connection looks like this:
I got lazy and did like in a set... yes it's easier, but then I thought and realized that no.... It's easier to do it right, and later I think I will show how I did it.
I then used the temporary keel as a template and drew the inside line.

 

 Then cut off all unnecessary (1) along this line and ground the keel on both sides (2).

Next, I made a simulated connection with a scalpel.
I have not decided yet, but most likely I will do this process differently. I will most likely cut the imitation with a blade and then fill the seam with TiteBond II glue and then grind it flat. Because after coating with bitumen, the gaps from the blade will be very colored, and I have not yet decided whether I need it, or it is better to make the seam with a strip of glue...
Next, I drilled holes and threaded 0.5 mm brass wire into them. And on top I glued CA gel...
But after grinding, I realized my biggest mistake...
 So, what was my mistake (I regret that I did not try on the probe). Since I do not have a vertical drilling machine, but just an engraver, I could not achieve perfect perpendicularity of drilling. And the holes on one side were accurate, and on the opposite side they shifted a little. Therefore, I tried to return them to their place, and thus the hole increased, and after the glue got there and after grinding, a black halo appeared around the wire... It's like for me - marriage.
Therefore, there is a solution (if there is no vertical drilling apparatus). You need to drill holes not through, but on both sides a little less than half the depth, and thread the wire on each side. Thus, you can accurately and accurately drill even holes in the marking and after grinding it will be like this.

 

This, as you understand, is Council No. 5.
Next, I made two parts of the upper part of the keel.
 The direction of the wood fibers is clearly visible here. And the waterline separates the two colors of the pear: dark and light.
And since the keel to the attachment of the barbells became a little thicker, I will try to embody this in the keel of the second case.
But that's not all... later I will show how I will further improve the keel and it will look even more interesting.

 

28.07.2025

 

Keel for the second hull, version No. 2.
All mistakes were taken into account and their own advice was applied... and here is the result, or rather the build process of the second version.
At first, everything is practically as in the first versions, but we cut it off only from a small part.
Then, in the same detail, I cut off the excess and scribbled a contour on the second detail with a finished profile...
Well, then cut out everything superfluous from this detail. Here the principle is simple, we prepare one part, we make a second one according to it, and the only visual connection will be the contour that we scribbled, so I made sampling (4) in excess, without bothering, because all the voids will be occupied by glue.
The main thing is to set everything straight. And do not cut everything along the contour until all the details are adjusted.
And here is the result after drilling holes from both sides! To perfectly achieve the correct arrangement of holes on both sides (if there is no vertical drilling device). That is, I drilled holes in a pattern on each side and inserted wire there on each side and glued CA gel over it. (shown above). And after grinding, I really liked the result.
 I also liked the right lock. And as I expected, it was not difficult to manufacture.
I get straight high from this lock.
Well, this is a sample of the top of the keel (stem). I wanted to design it in the color scheme of the entire case. And I also really liked the result and I will do the same to the original.
(the sample was hastily made and covered with tung oil to see mostly the color and arrangement of the lines.)

I think one more day and I will finish the final version of the keel (second), which looks much better than the first (and the option from the set too!).
P.S. I really like the color scheme (yellow, blue)... just like the colors of my country's flag.

 

 

30.07.2025

 

I continue with the keel...

By colors: black hornbeam - boxwood - blue hornbeam - light pear.

In order not to make a complex connection, I made one part and then scribbled a seam between them through a template.
And here's the result:
Since there will be a fragile connection along the waterline, I decided to strengthen it with metal nails and glued it to the CA gel.

 I remind you that the skin will be made of dark and light pear along the waterline, like the keel.

And a couple of close-ups...

It remains to make bolts at the end and holes for rigging and you can glue the keel to the body... finally.

 

 

01.08.2025

 

Today is a small anniversary... exactly 100 days of work on this project. Let me remind you, I started it in January of this year.
And today I finished the keel for the second hull. And in order: drilled 0.55 mm holes...
 ... inserted 0.5 mm brass wire from them...
... sealed CA with gel...
 ... and ground on an angle grinder.

 Then he made Latin numbers. I have already described this process earlier with the first keel on the first case. First marked, drew and cut with a scalpel, but straight, as if pressing and not scratching.

Cut the keel along the length...

... and drilled holes for rigging with a diameter of 1 mm.
Now the keel is ready and tomorrow according to the plan to glue it to the second hull... well, can I start sheathing the hull with boards... I can't wait and imagine how difficult it will be, given that the skin is two-tone and not yet butt and overlapping...

 

 

02.08.2025

 

Hurray, finally the work on the keel is over and I fixed it to the hull. You can say laid the keel (although this is not quite how it was done in life))

The keel was glued to the CA gel. I grabbed it at the back and front for a couple of dots. Then he set the parallelism and correctness of the fit 100500 times and then grabbed it at several more points. After solidification, I smeared glue all over the surface on both sides where there was a recess under the board. In appearance - tightly glued. Plus, the reinforcement will be for the light of sticking boards.

After fixation, he made a small round, maintaining the quadratic shape. Well, I remind you that I made a keel with expansion to the top from 5mm to 6mm.

 The positioners are almost all in place and now, after fixing the keel, you can sheathe the body with boards.

Already in anticipation of the side plating... I can imagine how it will not be easy to put it mildly.
By the way, there are 90 parts on board and soon there should be more of them...

 

 Next...

 

 

/ copyright. serykoff 2009 - 2026 - /