Глава 9. Carvel Planking.

 

07.08.2025

 

Railing-sill.
Small changes for you, but very big decisions for me. Lower railings "window sills."
This place (lower railings - window sills) turned out to be the most difficult for me in deciding how to implement it. Since I did not want to do in the kit on the second hull - due to the gaps between the railing and the racks. And so I finally figured out how to make sure that the work was minimal, but also the solution was as satisfactory as possible for me. I have not yet decided how I will do on the first hull. Most likely I will give a chance to the manufacturer's version with modifications, but I will leave the opportunity for my version.
So, the implementation of my decisions, which I came to after a few months of thought:
After I installed the vertical positioners, I rested them on the horizontal positioner along the hull.
And looking ahead, I will say that all this will be cleaned, and now it served for accurate positioning of the "windowsills." And the first to remove the vertical stops, since they have already completed their task.

 By the way, to keep the keel intact - I pasted it over with a protective tape.

 Then - I removed the plastic jumpers in the insertion area.
Now these inserts (railing drains) are free to fix the "sills."

Well, the "windowsill" themselves (the middle part of the lower railing), as I did it.

I measured the exact width of each span and cut out the corresponding blank.
 After that, I pressed it against the horizontal positioner with a bar that rested on two sides at once, creating parallelism and accurate horizontality.
 To maintain accurate horizontality, from the second side I added a thickness equal to the thickness of the "windowsill" to the bar. Fixed from the front on liquid CA by capillary deposition. Glue penetrated under the railing, gluing it to a horizontal positioner and even racks.
And from the inside - I smeared CA gel, reinforcing this compound.
The idea is to then grind the surplus those that remain from the inside and grind the outside level with the body not only the surplus, but also the entire positioner, since it will also fulfill its functions and will no longer be needed.
 And then, in order to smoothly glue the outer and inner parts of the railing, I will glue another vertical positioners...
... and in the end there will be such a result: the lower railings - consist of three parts: "window sills," external and internal. And after gluing, they should visually form one part. Since the black hornbeam is logically black, all seams should be practically invisible.
At first glance - the implementation is difficult, but! I thought a lot about this and did not come up with a way in which accuracy can be achieved in the least amount of time.
Making railings with square holes is not an option - because it is not possible to achieve accuracy without a milling machine in multiple lines. And any other method still leads to errors or significantly lengthens the process, which is also not acceptable. Therefore, it is easier to make a lot of positioners in a couple of minutes and then eliminate them, but on the other hand, do everything symmetrically and smoothly and most importantly quickly, which is most important for me.

 

 

09.08.2025

 

Sill-railings.
So, after grinding...

... which took place in the same way as before... the result was as follows inside:

And outside:

The result suited me and I am glad that this is the process behind.
There are 135 parts on board (not taking into account all the momentary positioners)... continue on.
By the way, I continue to try different options for wood coated with oil and bitumen... I'll tell you about it a little later.

 

 

16.08.2025

 

SternPost.
There are few updates, not much time to engage in hobbies. Plus, in several directions there are continuous dead ends, you have to think a lot about how to do what, and this takes a lot of effort and a lot of time. And the motivation from this falls. I want to do a lot, but you start one thing, but you still need to do the second, and to do this you also need the third, and to start the third, you need the fourth and fifth, and so on. Now the most important stage is the miscalculation and marking of the skin belts. And if you do it at random, then the result will be the same. So I sit, calculate, I think I decide...
... in the meantime, I decided to finish with the inserts.
To make it easier to glue the skin, he sewed up the voids with balsa and made a small conductor, along which he installed a hole under the steering wheel.
The steering wheel axis was a round workpiece. Then he made a stern and adjusted it to its place.

And since this part, like the rest, intersects the waterline, it will be two-tone.

 He marked the waterline in the same way as before on the front fragment. Glued from two parts: light and dark pear. So far, the difference is not very visible, but after the oil the difference will be very noticeable.

 In the future, the steering wheel will be made according to the same principle. In the meantime, I tried on the steering wheel from the first hull (skeleton).

And now the most difficult thing awaits me - fixing the outer part of the lower railing-windowsill, and then 2 belts of rails and a reinforced black belt, after which you can sheathe under the stern and then continue the rest of the sheathing... And I can't wait, but I also understand how difficult it will be...
P.S. there is still a lot of work on the sternpost, so it is not yet finished and not fixed. And yet, I forgot to clarify, the stem from above is 6 mm, and from below 4.5 mm, the steering wheel will be the same. When I completely refine it and fix it on this in detail.
 

 

18.08.2025

 

Railing-sill.
I breathed a sigh of relief today. Nobody like @dockattner will understand me. Painful deliberation and calculations have finally paid off.
The starting point today was laid.
The outer part of the sill-railings, which will serve as the foundation from which the sheathing belts will go and down and up. Until the end, I didn't quite understand how I would implement it, and although the result is not yet final (you still need to clean the glue and smooth the joint), something is already looming!
So, I cut 1x10 mm blanks from black hornbeam and yellow boxwood...

 Glued so that the finished part is enough for the entire length of the case and so that the joints do not intersect. As a result, 2x10 mm blanks were obtained.

 After grinding, they became 1.8x10 mm. Then I cut 1.8x2 mm parts from them.

 In the front of the hull, the bend is stronger, so I made a small radius before fixing with an iron so that the rail would not break.

To perfectly connect the outer and middle parts of the railing, I used a positioner that is fixed in the port hole with a wooden wedge. Fixed gradually, moving the positioner and pouring liquid CA under the railing.

Naturally, I will try to remove everything that will interfere with further work or that will be visible. But for the most part, it will close with other details.
And here is the result! Everything is plus or minus symmetric, so I'm happy.

I understood. that I will not leave the joints in any way, but this zone will still be finalized and on black hornbeam these joints will be little noticeable..

Everything is far from perfect, as we would like, but I think, in general, when there is a model assembled - the general view will cover all the shortcomings. In any case, I hope so.

 Now - things will go faster. You just need to glue the skin boards and watch the symmetry. The fun will start near the waterline... eh....

 

 

19.08.2025

 

Planking butt joint. Carvel Planking
I expected the skin to move not quickly, but today I glued 2 belts each (4 planks) ... and this despite the fact that I had these 4 boards prepared a long time ago, and I selected the only 4 that came up and reduced the width from 6 to 5 cm. So I had no room for error at all.

The fixation itself is not that complicated. It is necessary to press, spill with liquid CA so that it penetrates capillarity under the board and is ready. I still shed from the inside to strengthen the connection. And at the end I will fill all the gaps with glue and this forms one monolith. It was more difficult to clean, fit and chamfer everything for a better fit and to create gaps between the boards.
 But the result suited me.

After grinding, the result was even better..

Well, do not forget about symmetry either.

From this perspective, in the hand - it is already beginning to resemble a ship.

The next in line is the power belt (rubbing piece). It will be two-layer. Since the black hornbeam bends poorly, I decided to do first 0.8-0.9mm and on top of the main layer, so that in total it would be visually visible that the power board is thicker than ordinary boards.

 

 

23.08.2025

 

Wales. (barkhouts)
I am very glad that I started this project... that at the same time I am building two hulls. And for me there is a lot new in this project. The first kit that I started (and by the way this is the simplest of all), and definitely a lot of new things every time.
Today I was doing wales (powerboards). And for the first time I bent a black hornbeam in all three planes. Both plane and edge.
Earlier I said that I would make barkhouts two-layer, because I did not think that I could bend the board in 2mm and a tween of almost 8mm, but I tried it and it turned out.
First, I glued 4 parts from the copy geometry kit.

Then I tried to bend the rail flat, it's easier, but the radius is not small and I had to check if the board would crack. And then I bent another sample and over the rib... then I realized that this was a working option.

 Bent as always: first I soak a fragment of the board in hot water and then press the wildebeest in the right direction with an iron.

 First, I bent along the edge and checked the geometry with a sample from the set. And then he bent along the plane and tried on the body. When everything became according to the geometry of the case, I glued two fragments through the lock.
The castle was made with a file. I started one fragment, then applied it to the second and scratched the profile of this lock with a blade. Then you just had to cut out the second lock by scratches.
This had to be done since I did not have a fragment of black hornbeam for the entire length of the case, so one lock will be real and two more will be scrawled after fixing. So I would make all the connections an imitation (so easier), but the length did not allow.
Before fixing, I made a special recess on the front so that the board goes around the corner and its edge goes deep, fixing there, strengthening the fixation.
I glued it like this: the front part on the CA gel positioning only the front fragment of the board 4 cm long. Then I glued everything to the CA liquids according to the same principle as all the boards before. Pressed - spilled (capillary) liquid CA into the seam between the board and the hull and there gradually moved to the stern, glue 4-5 cm at a time. It is important that when held, the board fits tightly to both the adjacent board and the body. Otherwise, there will be gaps and distortion of geometry.
Then it was necessary to grind everything and give the board the correct geometry in the form of a round.
I removed the remains of glue in the joint between the boards and under it with a blade. As you can see, there are no traces. To strengthen the connection, I spilled liquid CA from the inside between the frames. Then all these spaces will still be spilled with CA gel, so that for sure nothing comes off over time.
And here is the result, while on one side.

Lock so that it can be seen done with slits. And this principle will be in all connections for greater visualization, especially when bitumen gets into the cracks.

 The result is obviously already satisfactory.


 

25.08.2025

 

There are not many updates, but not a little work has been done.
I made two castles on the rubbing piece (imitation).

He also prepared a place for the closing part.

 It was very difficult to do this with great risk of spoiling an already attached part... but as long as it is not the final resurfacing, it will be when that part (crescent) is ready.
Well, the most important thing is that I glued the second rubbing piece, and naturally trying to do everything symmetrically.

 Further work will be carried out under the stern. There will be black hornbeam and pear boards...
... in the meantime, I'm glad everything is perfectly symmetrical. (although from the perspective of the photo it seems that it is not quite))))

 

 

27.08.2025

 

Planking under the stern.
Today I got straight high from what was happening. Working with a black hornbeam is one love! And although it is very capricious and very difficult to work with, but the color after grinding is just something unreal!
First of all, I glued the basis for the figured rail. This basis is thinner than the boards that will be nearby and after fixing them in this recess, I will glue the figured slats.
 The board-basis has its own bend (it is not even).
 Therefore, I glued it whole, and then cut it into a meter for trying on the stern post.

 Then I bent the pre-soaked board in hot water with the same iron to give it the right curvature.
First belt.

Second belt.

To create the right hole, I used such a homemade device.

Third belt.

Oh yes, the boards tapered at the ends. From 7.2 mm (in the middle) to 6.5 mm at the edges.

 Fourth belt.
Fifth belt.
Although the drawings from the anatomy show that there are 4 belts, but having calculated this space, I realized that this was most likely a mistake, because then the board should have been 9 mm, which is very doubtful, because below the board is 6 mm.
I then sanded the surface with sandpaper (320) wrapped around the cylinder.

And then he calibrated the gaps between the boards with a needle. I do this in order to better express the joints. Otherwise, with a perfect fit, it will look like one.

The result is this arched shape...

... which is often not performed, and this spoils the look a little with its angularity.
Well, a couple more angles:

What a pity that the model will not be seen from this angle, but only in what is below in the photo.

 Well, a couple of macro photos of the steering wheel hole.
I specially made an element of a different color inside to highlight the boards well against its background.

 I really liked how it turned out...

The edges of the boards have not yet been decorated. They will still need to be rounded correctly and glued there with an arc part that will connect the sides and the rear. Plus, you need to make a slot for the stern... But before that, I think I will make the skin below, from a pear, which will go diagonally.

 

 

30.08.2025

 

Today is a very small update. Not much work has been done, but its complexity, despite its appearance, is very large. To be honest, I didn't think it would work out that way.
But at the beginning I wanted to show how I assembled a puzzle from boards. For cladding to the waterline, I will use a light pear and at least this area is not large, but the prepared pear was barely enough for it. I previously wrote that due to the wrong cut of the log - the boards turned out to be all striped due to the difference in fiber colors. For several hours I selected the length and order of the boards so as to bypass these stripes and maximize the uniformity of the surface.
To understand how much will go into the trash, but the main thing for me is that all of this is at least enough for the lining to the waterline.
 In the photo, I tweaked the saturation to check again the coincidence of shades. Where there are color transition lines - there the boards narrow and these fragments will be cut off, so everything is extremely Western, and there is no room for error at all!!! So I prepared the boards to continue the plating under the stern...
In the meantime, I finished the upper section under the stern, which I mentioned at the beginning.

 The hardest part is to make those parts that do not have exact dimensions... And which need to be adjusted in place. I did these two arched details for several hours...

But I was delighted with the result... I was sure that it would not be possible to marry everything like that (sides and stern)... but I got it!

Under the impressions, I decided to fit and try on the sternpost to its place.

I decided not to cut the boards, but, on the contrary, to cut off the excess at the sternpost (by the way, I haven't finished it yet, I still need to form an angle).

Well, of course, where without symmetry photos))
Next in line is the diagonal filling under the stern with a light pear, I can't wait...

 

31.08.2025

 

Today I was finally doing what I had been waiting for - diagonal planking under the stern. And in order.
First, according to the drawings, I outlined the angle of inclination of the boards.
Then glued together 3 boards...
 ... before gluing, I made small chamfers on both sides so that there was a gap between the boards. And he did the second one right away, so that when they closed they were exactly symmetrical.
 Then I glued one workpiece to the body, but so that the glue did not get on the sternpost (it will be removable until the last for the convenience of grinding).
 Then he glued the opposite part.
 Well, then, one by one glued on both sides...

I chose reiki from ready-made (cut and covered with oil) to use only uniform colors and without stripes and color transitions.

Then I scratched the waterlines with a sharp tip with a high-altitude meter.

And along this line...

... I cut off the excess and began to glue below the dark pear board.

It ended up like this.

Then I filled the CA waterline gap with gel...

... and after grinding I got the following result:
There are gaps between the boards, which will appear when coated with oil and bitumen, and the waterline (since it does not actually separate the part, it is filled with glue and will be with a dark floor, without forming a gap between the fragments of as if one whole part).

Well, by tradition - a photo of symmetry...

Next in line is the lining of the sides to the waterline with a light pear... it will be a challenge! Since the boards do not go end to end, but overlap!!! Eh...

 

Next...

 

 

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