4 - Assembly: Frames - Naval Cutter Alert [1777] 1:48 build log ~ Serikoff Ship Models

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Chapter 4. Assembly: Frames.

08.05.2025

Front frames (adjustment and fixation).

I have finished work on the stern so far and I will return to it later. In the meantime, I will make the front frames. The first 3 pairs have a special shape and you need to make it by stickers.

There are no particular difficulties in this. But the place of contact with frame 4 is very important. And it needs to be adjusted so that a gap does not form. Therefore, I do not recommend immediately polishing this place completely, but repeatedly checking.

It is also important that these two parts fit snugly together.

By the way, these lower combs, on which the frames will rest, are not the final shape. They need to be customized for each frame. Especially with the first 5-6s. Therefore, I still have not glued the case to the slipway, and I still have the opportunity to take it out and adjust it in a more convenient position, access and visibility.

After checking, I glued frames number 1 not in the slipway, controlling the position of the arc with the arc of the false keel. Importantly, there is no need to apply glue to the entire contact point! Since after cutting the frame it will be difficult to tear it off where the glue was.

Looking ahead, I want to show how the part should look like under the front frames. It was so cut not at one time, but by the method of selection, edits and micro-cuts after each frame.

And this is how the installed frames look dry (without glue). I recommend that you first adjust several frames and check the contours, and only then glue. This will save you from hollows if you incorrectly fit some frame and it will be out of place.

Earlier in the review, I said that I would do imitation of connections on 4, 5, 6 pairs of frames. Since they are in the anatomy and even in the instructions, but for some reason they were simplified in manufacture. I don't want to redo them, so imitation of connections is my option.

When I set a few frames, I could see the logical position of the connections on the front pairs. I drew lines with a pencil and they will be landmarks for the position of the cuts. I repeated the same operation inside the case.

In short, I first draw the outline of the connection...

Then I make an incision with a special scalpel. Only I do not lead the cutting cream (you can accidentally make the cut larger, and the pressure is difficult to control), and I push the entire sharp plane along the entire length of the line. Just this line is the same as the length of the scalpel.

Below are examples (not the most indicative) but you can understand the principle from them.

On the right is a real connection. In the center - imitation. On the left is also imitation, but under oil and with imitation bolts. (not very visible, but the live lines are very similar to glue joints).

The first frame that needs to be glued is the 4th. It has no notes on how to grind it, so this is achieved empirically.

Also, to position 2x and 3x frames, you need to polish the slipway a little.

By the way, about the 2nd frame.

ATTENTION UPDATE:

On the inner surface, you can adhere to grinding by stickers...
... but the outer part should NOT be processed like this (as the stickers recommend)!!!

Unfortunately, although I said not to trust the stickers, I ground them along their contour, but you need to leave at least 1 mm more on the outside, as shown in the photo below with a red line.

If you process as the stickers show, you get a difference in the material, and after grinding there will be holes and holes like on this sample of another master.

The solution became - grinding the slipway and tilting the second frames forward to compensate for this deficit. Surprisingly, this will not affect the inner surface.

But with the 3rd frame, everything is not so simple. According to stickers - the form did not fit at all.

And I had to redo those details twice. But by the method of numerous adjustments, I did as much as I could.

And running ahead, after I took the case out of the slipway, this is what happened.

I achieved maximum symmetry and predicting the final grinding I think that the body will be with the correct contours, without dips. But since I have not yet glued the frames to the slipway, I will slightly tilt the upper ends of the 2x frames forward to surely achieve the correct shape.

And now, a small slideshow on assembling the front of the hull...

What else would I like to advise. The places that I noted below in the ovals are better polished as smoothly as possible. It will be difficult to get to places near the keel, and if there are scratches from a large grain of sandpaper, it will be difficult to fix it.

Again, I have not yet glued the upper ends of the frames to the slipway. I don't plan to pull it out anymore, but if necessary, there will be an opportunity for it. But, naturally, later I will glue everything for greater stability and the ability to grind.

On this while with the front part completely, and you can complete the stern completely.

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13.05.2025

Stern II (continued work on the rear part).

First of all, I glued the upper parts of the frames to the slipway, and now it will not be possible to remove the case from the slipway. But I glued them pointwise on the CA gel. And if it is necessary for some reason to remove any of them, then it will still be possible. But before grinding, I will still glue the entire surface near the frames for reliability.

So, stern. Before setting the toptimbers, you need to slightly adjust the slipway...

... so that the parts fit diagonally.

It is better to install everything at once in order to place them as much as possible with the same interval, and then adjust them along the plane.

You also need to prepare parts 77 for stickers. The principle is the same as before, even simpler.

And then, adjusting the parts for the seat - glue them to their places.

And after grinding the inner surface of the toptimbers, I glued a beam with a step and a couple of beams of the upper deck...

... then, two more (now the average 4 beams are ready)...

... and finally, glued 2 more side beams, which will hold the upper deck on the sides.

I sketched paper deck prototypes to visualize the step in between.

On this with the stern, I am still finished. The result is such a platform for the upper small deck. Next in line are the rear frames and there will be a slideshow again )) the main thing is not to forget to photograph all the stages)))

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Rear frames (adjustment and fixation).

Since the frames were already ready, I just needed to glue them. And here again a small slideshow (again)))))

Although the frames have not yet been polished, their appearance is already impressive.

The frames have already been checked and I applied PVA glue to all the top surfaces to strengthen the overall strength for the final grinding after fixing all the frames.

Only the central frames remained in line: ordinary, paired and half-frequent. I can't wait for the full set!

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17.05.2025

Middle frames (fixation of solid, paired and half-frequent frames).

In addition to just solid frames, which are fixed separately, there are also paired ones. Let's start with them. Paired because they should be glued together, but not separately, but in the case in a slipway. Because gluing separately can give them the wrong geometry.

To begin with, I make imitation bolts on paired frames on the sides.

The drawings show that there are 8-9 of them throughout the frame. They are arranged a little in a checkerboard pattern, and that's what I implemented.

I made the cylindrical recess with the same gel handle without a ball at the end. The main thing is not to get into places where the same imitation bolts are transverse. So that there is no conflict between them, that is, so that they do not intersect.

In the beginning, I thought not to make them, but after I saw that they would still be visible, I realized that they were needed.

So how I glued paired and half-frequent frames to each other.

At first, I collected several frames in front to check the geometry and remove unnecessary ones while it is convenient to do..

Then I glue the first frame (which should be paired) separately with CA gel on the lower contact point...

... then I stick this frame on top with a point CA gel.

Then I first apply PVA glue to almost the entire surface of the second frame from the pair and dot CA gel at the bottom.

And I glue it to the first frame, after that fixing the upper points to the slipway.

Attention!! No need to apply glue to the place marked with a red oval. This place will be a zone of separation of the body from the excess part of the frames. And since the cuts are staggered and if there is glue there, it will be difficult for you to separate the vertical parts glued together. (review the instructions in advance and you will understand what I mean).

So the two frames are paired and now we need to glue a half to them. But before that, you need to apply an imitation of bolts on a one-piece frame, which will be next to the half. He will close this bundle.

We must not forget everything, and think over all the steps in advance, because after fixing it will be impossible to do it.

Then, I glue half of the frame onto the PVA, but again I do not glue the separation zone.

Fix the upper part with CA gel for stability.

Well, then I glue the closing one-piece frame, on which I previously made an imitation of bolts.

That is, let's repeat again: 1 - first a single frame is glued to 3 points of CA (bottom and top to the slipway), 2 - then the second frame from this pair is glued to the PVA and 3 points of the SA, 3 - then it is glued to this pair on the PVA (and pointwise from the top of the CA) half of the frame, 4 - and then the closing one-piece frame is glued to the PVA and 3 points of the CA. The combinations throughout the body will be different, but the principle remains the same. The main thing is not to forget the imitation of bolts where it is needed.

By the way, I hold the paired frames while the glue dries like this. And since this happens in 5 minutes, it is only necessary to create the initial pressure.