Chapter 26. On the Decks (Part 4)


1/8

31.08.2026

Gratings. 

So, a huge milestone has been achieved; the hulls and decks are almost complete, and now I'm returning to the deck rigging and will begin with finishing the gratings. 

This time I made an imitation of the nails that connected the gratings themselves and the nails that fastened the frames...

...and I thought long and hard, and finally decided to make imitation plugs over the bolts that secured the frames to the beams and carlings. I haven't yet decided whether I'll do this where the frames are thin, but where the thickness allows, I will.

 I'm still thinking about doing the same on the first body kit, but to protect the oil coating, I'll cover it with masking tape.

I wanted to create a sense of presence... that is, so that the small details wouldn't overwhelm the main part from a distance, so that they wouldn't look like contrasting dots, but so that all the fine detailing would only be visible up close and just enough to be distinguishable from the main body.

And now, the most important and most interesting part... and for me, it's also the most challenging and the most terrifying!!! This is the oil coating. What's the big deal? But I'm making a museum-style model, and after the coating, it initially becomes much darker than before. And then there's the bitumen... And it's important to have a sense of proportion. If it's too light, the antique, museum-like effect will be lost, and if it's too dark, everything could blur into one black spot...

As planned, to make the deck details stand out and contrast, I coated them with pure tung oil. I did this with a regular paper towel and immediately wiped it dry with another one.

 Unfortunately, I couldn't achieve accurate color reproduction quickly, and the color in the photo isn't quite as accurate as in real life, although it's quite close. I'll try to make every effort to capture the color in the photo as realistically as possible.

The photos below were taken with a Fujifilm X-T4 and an XF-16-55mm f2.8 lens.

The deck in the background (if you remember) is the lower deck of the second hull, which I coated with oil and bitumen long ago. And as you can see, the grating matches the color and is almost identical to the one already coated with bitumen. And that's good, because now I don't need to heavily shade it with bitumen, but only create contour accents and aging spots.

I understand that not everyone will appreciate this style and not everyone likes the museum-like look... but I really like these style. They capture the spirit of the time, the antique, the vintage... and they don't look like pretty toys at all, but rather like works of art, which is what I strive for. And although I'm very self-critical and don't consider my models as such, I am pleased to see these colors, this look, and this atmosphere that these wooden figures emanate. 😝



02.09.2026

 2/8

Gratings and traps.

 A couple of days ago, I coated all the gratings and drains with pure Rutrins Tung Oil.

I applied the oil once with a piece of paper towel, spread it evenly, and immediately wiped it dry with another towel.

I also attached the handles and curtains to the skylight and drain. The handles are made of blackened 0.25mm brass wire. The curtains are soft copper wire, also blackened. Beforehand, I rolled the edges and cut them (to create flares at the ends, as I did for the bolts). I also rolled the center with a knife, but without cutting, to create a circular groove imitating the joint between the two curtain parts.

I tried to capture the color as close to life as possible. I almost got it right, but when I tried to lighten the exposure, the color shifted—so now this is what I can see in person, at least a little bit.

I hope to get a macro lens someday so I can take closer photos with maximum clarity and color rendition. The color still isn't quite right, and the photo doesn't have the full sharpness necessary to convey what I want.

 Next up are the rest of the deck elements...



04.09.2026

 3/8

Pumps.

I've previously demonstrated the process of making all metal parts by electroplating 3D-printed plastic parts with copper.

Now I'm processing, polishing, blackening, and making wooden components for them. All the work with the wooden blanks is described in the illustrations. I've emphasized all the key points.



09.09.2026

 4/8

So, let's continue... I didn't expect the pumps to take up so much time, but the main thing is that I'm really pleased with the result. It's not quite finished yet—I still have the securing stage to go—but for now, it's 90% complete...

I frankly disliked the design Goodwin depicted in all his anatomical studies regarding the transition from the lever to the piston rod (the hook). That version appeared in another book as well, but I am more than certain it was merely a schematic representation; I highly doubt such a design would have functioned properly (though I could be mistaken). Instead, I followed a design I had seen in several sources—including museum pieces, though I no longer recall exactly which ones. The piston rod passed through the lever, and a reinforcing bracket was fitted around the lever to prevent chafing at that point. I liked that approach, so that is the one I used.

Before assembly, I coated the pear wood with pure Tung oil (I’m specifying this one last time; from now on, this is exactly how I’ll always do it). I dampen a paper towel (or occasionally a cloth), wipe the wood, and immediately wipe off the excess with a dry paper towel. I apply Danish oil the same way. Sometimes I might use a slightly damp brush if I can't reach into a recess, but I immediately wipe away the excess.

 I treat the copper parts in the same standard way (I am specifying this one last time; the procedures remain unchanged from here on out). I work wearing nitrile gloves, so the copper parts aren't soiled with grease, and I don't need to degrease them. I dilute the BB solution 1:5 with plain water and perform the first exposure for 18–20 minutes. Then, I rinse the parts, let them air-dry for about 20 minutes, and use a very soft brush to sweep away the residue/film from the surface. Next, I perform a second exposure in a 1:3 BB-to-water solution for 9–10 minutes. After that, I rinse and let them air-dry again—this time for longer, 30 minutes or more. Once the film is lightly brushed off, the parts are ready to use. This method takes time, but the results are highly predictable. It produces a very dark graphite color—not pure black—with a durable, uniform coating that doesn't flake or crumble. Naturally, the finish remains vulnerable to scratches from hard objects, but that has always been the case. I don't specifically repair minor chips or scuffs; they add a natural look, and the dark copper exposed underneath mimics the rust on forged iron. For a museum-quality appearance, this is actually a plus.

A few macro shots:

And here is how it will look on the model, under Nelson's watchful eye:

Finally, the pumps are almost done... and I can move on to the next part—the flue.



10.09.2026 

 5/8

Stove and Flue..


The kit includes metal parts for assembling the entire stove, and the quality is actually quite good.

 However, I’ve put that task on hold for now, since I don’t plan to install the stove inside the first hull; instead, I want to place it as a separate element of the overall display next to the ship (alongside the cannons, anchors, boat, and perhaps a few other items).

As for the second hull, the stove isn't fully visible anyway, so I initially modeled only the chimney—though "modeled" might be a bit of an overstatement! ))))

Then I 3D-printed it, fitted it to the frame, and coated it with copper.

I started by inking it using my usual method, but the smokestack—with its very smooth, straight walls—looked boring and lacked a worn appearance. So, I applied some weathering. Since the metal heated up and accumulated soot—which would have been scrubbed off—combined with the effects of saltwater and temperature, the part clearly needed to look heavily weathered.

Here is the technique I used: After two standard applications, the part had already turned a dark graphite color. Next, I diluted some pure BB [Burnishing Fluid] with water—mixing it 1:1 (or with slightly more BB)—and applied it with a brush. The top layer began to break down and flake off in places, so I dabbed the tip of the brush against the surface to create localized areas of deterioration. Then, I gently brushed away the loose flakes. I repeated this process until I was completely satisfied with the result. I don't recommend doing this with undiluted BB, as it can leave purple streaks and severely damage the surface; that’s why it needs to be diluted with water. However, this likely only works on a polished surface like the one I had; I haven't tried it on a rough surface. Experimentation is key here...

Against the backdrop of the clean deck, this might seem excessive right now, but don't forget that my goal is a museum-quality look—and that involves bitumen, the play of shadows, and dark tones. So, in the end, this detail will blend in perfectly.

I haven't glued anything together yet... each part is fabricated, test-fitted, photographed, and set aside until the time comes to secure it in place; in the meantime... the rigging winch is next on the list.



11.09.2026 

 6/8

 Windlass.

 I had previously crafted the wooden parts for it, and I also showed how I made the metal elements.

As a reminder, all the parts were modeled in the 3D program Blender.

Then they were 3D-printed and copper-plated using an electroplating process.

After copper plating, they come out very smooth and shiny, so they require some processing and preparation before blackening. I also made the cylindrical parts out of dark pear wood so they would stand out from the main body (the top two parts in the photo below).

Then I drilled a few holes in the necessary places and...

... and assembled the mechanism, shortening the cylindrical component so that it—together with two metal ratchets—formed the exact length corresponding to the distance between the carlings on the deck.

There is no point in making the mechanism functional, so I’ll simply glue everything together; I’ll shorten the axles (iron nails) and attach handles to the sides.

The question of the locking mechanism remains. The anatomy diagrams contradict themselves yet again. The main contradiction concerns the direction of the cylinder's rotation: does it turn from the bow, over the top, toward the stern, or from the stern, over the top, toward the bow? This determines the placement of the locking pin—whether it should point aft or forward. The anatomy shown is simply absurd; one image shows one configuration, while the second shows another. And to top it off, one view shows *both*—which defies common sense! I’ll investigate this further, but I think the logic is straightforward: I should look to the forward anchor mechanism for an analogy, as that setup is perfectly clear. The movement went from the bow, over the top, toward the stern. I am virtually certain the aft mechanism operated the same way.


14.09.2026

7/8 

 Continuing on... I installed the locking mechanism and anchor pins to reinforce the hold. Then I blackened the copper, glued everything together, and finished it with Tung oil.

Once the oil dries, all that remains is to attach the handles and locking pins... and next time, I’ll show you how it all looks on the decks.


 

 16.05.2026

8/8 

 I'm finishing up... I glued the handles in place using five-minute epoxy, which is very convenient for setting the correct angle and position. I glued the retaining pins using Titebond II, injecting the adhesive into the hole with a syringe before inserting the pin and wiping away the excess. This method is convenient because it allows for clean application; since this component isn't load-bearing, this type of bond is sufficient, and it also makes future repairs easier. On the opposite side, I installed a 0.6 mm bolt.

I also installed bolts (made from 0.5 mm brass wire). Since the ship model's hull lacks deck planking—yet the knee rests against the deck—I positioned the bolts so they remain visible; they are exposed not only due to the absence of planks but also, on one side, because there are no cross-members between the carlings.

And here’s the result... I finally managed to set up good lighting, and the photos turned out pretty well.

In the top photo, you can clearly see the handles gleaming right where I simulated exposed metal—the result of constant friction from the hands turning.

That wraps things up for these components; next up is the anchor mechanism... and that’s where things get more interesting—and far more complex.



And as always... a moment for some useless statistics...

- The project began in mid-March 2025. That was a year and a half ago.

- Today marks exactly the 365th day of work on the two models... which means I’ve spent two out of every three days over the past year and a half working on them.

- Given that each day required 5–6 hours of work, that totals over 2,000–2,200 hours.

- I’ve completed the 26th installment of the build log; each part contains 120–130 photos, bringing the total count to over 3,000 images.

- The first hull currently features 1,280 parts, plus 200 clinker planking bolts and 800 wooden pegs.

- The second hull has 905 parts, plus 1,914 clinker planking bolts and 2,328 wooden pegs.

This project has been the best therapist for me given the current situation—with my country in the midst of war—and it is precisely this project that is keeping me mentally grounded.

The show must go on, so... let’s keep moving forward !!!

 

Next... 


/ copyright. serykoff 2009 - 2026 - /