1/
22.08.2026
Anchor Windlass.
I previously showed how I fabricated some of the wooden parts (the bowsprit bitts). All the metal parts were made using the same method as the others I had shown earlier. The appearance was modeled in 3D software...
Then, everything was 3D-printed and copper-plated using an electroplating process. After finishing, the parts will be blackened and integrated into the wooden elements.
But first, we need to build a jig to accurately transfer all the parameters, positions, and angles of the future components, since we must precisely align the winch, ratchet mechanism, and stanchions with the position of the main bowsprit bitts.
This step took me several days, but without it, it’s impossible to install all the elements accurately and predictably. Each part has its own axis, tilt, and precise distance from other objects. And most importantly, everything must be strictly vertical (relative to the sides), horizontal (relative to the horizon), and set at the correct angles (relative to the keel). Plus, the locking pin has to be exactly in place and align with the right points... in short, it involves endless fitting and checking. But the result will be spot-on.
03.10.2026
2/
I lost practically a week to COVID and couldn't do anything. To avoid wasting all that time, I worked concurrently on 3D modeling the decorative elements and the figurehead for the *Victory*. So, let's continue with the anchor mechanism. Because errors in the kit parts mean the assembly for the first hull differs slightly from the second, I am building them one after the other rather than in parallel like the other components. The photos show all the stages, so without further ado:
This time, I experimented with blackening. I had noticed that, over time, neon-like spots would appear in isolated areas—resembling the sheen of gasoline on wet asphalt (something I’ve shown before). Upon investigation, it turns out that internal processes continue within the electroplated copper; the blackening solution's reagents cause something to leach out, though wiping the surface with alcohol helps remove it. So, this time, I tried degreasing the parts before blackening. I started with an initial 18-minute soak in a 1:5 solution of blackening agent and water. After rinsing, and without letting them dry, I brushed off the residue while the parts were still submerged in the rinse water. Next, I transferred the wet parts directly into a 1:3 solution for 9 minutes. Immediately after rinsing—and again without drying—I dropped them into alcohol. Only then did I dry them off. Finally, I removed the surface film and polished the pieces using a soft attachment at very low speed. This produced a more pronounced metallic luster. The copper didn't turn quite as black as it usually does with my standard method, but the polishing action compensated for that. I’ll be monitoring the results to see how things change. My test pieces (anchors) had already started turning blue again, so the alcohol wipe was only a temporary fix. Acting on advice from an AI, I coated them with Danish oil and Tung oil. I applied the oil with a cloth and buffed it dry after just a few seconds. The AI claims that a microscopic layer remains, sealing out oxygen and preventing further changes to the parts. We’ll see! I’ll make a separate post about this after a couple of months of observation. On the plus side, applying and wiping off the oil doesn't alter the color or sheen; everything looks exactly as it did before. So, if this helps prevent blue spots, I’ll definitely be oiling the blackened metal. Here is the result after the blackening process. It’s a shame the photos can’t quite capture the true color, but I really like the texture and the hue. The interplay of lively sheen and deep shadows creates a sense of depth, preventing everything from blurring into a single black blob—something I really dislike.
For storage, I use dental crown boxes (for those who don't know, I am a prosthodontist).
Next is the ratchet mechanism itself, featuring an octagonal beam for the anchor rope...
08.10.2026
3/
Wrapping up the first hull section... I’ve finally finished the anchor mechanism for the first hull! It took me a full 11 days—and that’s not counting the copper plating or the construction of the bowsprit bitts (which I’d done earlier). The challenge lay in several significant errors in the kit that I only noticed too late to redo; specifically, the positioning of the beam near the bowsprit bitts and the carlings near the windlass (winch) supports. Because of this, I had to adapt everything so it looked harmonious without requiring a complete rebuild. It was crucial to calculate the dimensions and positioning precisely so that the pawls would engage correctly with the ratchet mechanism. I soldered the side hoops using silver solder; it takes a blackening finish well and doesn't leave light spots. Since the hoop is very thin, I didn't remove the excess solder—leaving it there actually reinforces the joint. Even though this area will face downwards, it’s still better to have a uniform black finish. When heating the metal for the paste, you need to apply the heat away from the paste itself.
I trimmed the sides of the jig so that the knees could be secured within the windlass uprights. I previously showed how I made them for the rigging windlass, as well as how I fabricated and installed the bolts.
4/
To correctly position the holes on the octagonal bar, I mounted it on the axis of rotation and clamped it in a vise. Using a 1.5 mm drill bit on a milling machine at a low speed (6,000 rpm), I drilled the holes in a staggered pattern. A depth stop was used on the drill bit, as the holes were not intended to go all the way through.
To turn round holes into square ones, I machined a trapezoidal shape out of a round steel blank. I used this tool to press the trapezoid into the round hole, transforming it into a square.
And here is the interim result:
This isn't the final result yet—just a dry fit. Everything still needs to be coated with tung oil, and the final assembly will take place directly inside the hull after the deck has been secured to it... and then comes a second, identical mechanism, but for the second hull.
11.10.2026
5/
Anchor mechanism of the 2nd hull.
In the photo above, I have already demonstrated a number of steps in detail; going forward, I will show in detail only the procedures that differ from the construction of the first mechanism—specifically, the use of a new positioning jig.
The objective is to fix the exact position of the bitts, transfer the hole locations from the deck onto the bitts themselves, and join them using reinforcing pins.
The bitts are now positioned correctly relative to the ship's sides, but I still need to set the right angle relative to the keel. However, given my setup, it is impossible to drill eight holes with such precision that all four pins align perfectly and connect the components seamlessly across every axis and plane—it’s just not realistic. So, I came up with a clever workaround. I cleaned the area beneath the deck and widened the bottom two-thirds of each deck hole (leaving the top third untouched, as that determines the bitts' placement, while I only needed to adjust their angle). Then, working from underneath the deck, I slipped sleeves with cylindrical bores onto the pins and secured their sides with CA gel. This gave me precise positioning for all four cylindrical channels that house the pins. The resulting structure is vastly stronger than necessary, yet the pin alignment is individually set and offers absolute precision.
Now the bits stay firmly in place without glue, and I can fabricate and install other elements around them (using their position as a reference).
17.10.2026
6/
Where the procedures are similar to those I’ve already covered, I won’t go into detail; instead, I’ll simply show the final result, as seen in the photo above.
And now, a bit of a sore subject... I’ve been working on these two anchor mechanisms for three weeks—it’s been one of the most challenging stages of the build. I’m glad I decided to use the pre-made supports for the ratchet mechanism (included in the kit) rather than building them from scratch; the ones I made from scratch for the second set caused the most trouble. Things just went wrong with these components from the very start and stayed that way until the end. Under other circumstances, I would have redone everything, but given the complexity and the massive amount of time already invested, I decided to leave them as they are. I work using 3x-magnification binocular loupes, so I notice every single flaw—and there are more defects on these few parts than on the entire rest of the model combined. I also experimented with a blackening technique, which turned out to be quite poor—the finish proved extremely fragile. I redid it three times, yet there are still spots where it has chipped away. I’ve decided to just accept these chips; I’ll treat them as if they were intentional—meant to simulate rust. Furthermore, I made a miscalculation and ended up with the "arms" (levers) too short, so I had to glue on extra pieces. In theory, these areas will be completely hidden by the rigging. In another spot, the milling bit tore out a chunk of the wood, which also required patching. Elsewhere, a drill bit slipped, damaging the surface near one of the shackles. The shackles themselves were prone to deforming—the bolts couldn't be made long enough, and they refused to seat properly into the holes. But the real climax came when I tried to make a slight adjustment to the position of a piece—and it cracked clean in half, right along the grain and along the path I’d drilled for a pin... I thought that was the end of it. And this happened to a completely finished part I’d spent days working on! Luckily, it split in such a way that the back side stayed intact; I flooded the break with PVA glue (you absolutely cannot use CA glue in a situation like this), and because the fractured edges fit together perfectly, the seam is barely noticeable. In short, everything that could possibly go wrong with these two stanchions did—and then some... I took photos of it all and felt pretty miserable. But I’m not going to show them to you, because 90% of these issues are either invisible to the naked eye or would only be visible from an angle underneath—which is impossible to see, given the deck and the hull sides. With my level of perfectionism, you can’t imagine how hard it is for me to come to terms with all this... but I’m definitely not redoing it; laziness and common sense have won out in the end, hahahah.
Next up is the fabrication of the ratchet mechanism—hopefully, I’ll be done with this stage; it’s proven to be quite a difficult part for me...
22.10.2026
7/
So, this is finally the last part of making the anchor-related components—hooray!
I’ve decided to redo the pin rack, though I’m not yet sure how I’ll go about crafting the pins themselves. According to the "anatomy", they’re supposed to be square—matching the square holes in the rack—but I’m highly skeptical of that; I’ve never encountered square pins anywhere. In any case, I’ll figure that out closer to the installation stage. I’ve already finished making the ratchet mechanism, as well as the bowsprit.
For the 1st hull, the bowsprit had to be made a little thinner, since the pins were already at a certain distance and it simply would not fit there... but visually this is not noticeable, especially when they are not next to each other but on different models. I made square holes in the bowsprits using the same tool that I showed earlier. In bits, these holes are round because the outer and inner parts change from round to square. I connect the bits and bowsprit using a piece of drill, which will be inside and closed on the sides with square parts with locking wedges.
The components are currently disassembled and awaiting an oil finish... there are 260 pieces in total (not counting the dowels used for the slats).
And here is the interim result—a dry fit:
Next on the agenda is securing the lower deck on the second hull and installing lighting on it...
23.10.2026
8/
Before starting work on the lower deck of the second hull, I coated all the components of both decks—including the metal elements—with Rustins Tung Oil.
Initially, I hadn’t planned on applying oil to the metal, but—as I’ve shown previously—over time (after a couple of months), electroplated copper that has reacted with Brass Black can develop a new film or even neon-colored spots. While this only affects about 5–10% of the total surface area, it does happen, and there’s no guarantee that it won’t spread further. After consulting with an AI, I learned that to stop the reaction, I need to remove the film using a soft attachment (at a very low speed), wipe the surface down with alcohol, and then apply oil (either to the metal alone or to the entire assembly, if the wood and metal are already joined). Both Tung oil and Danish oil should work; they both polymerize, effectively sealing off oxygen and—theoretically—stabilizing the finish.
That is exactly what happened with the test samples. A month has passed, and there is no sign of any film or bluish discoloration. I applied the oil in a moderate layer and wiped it completely dry, ensuring no film remained. This is sufficient for the oil to seal the micropores without leaving behind a sticky, glossy coating. I hope this result remains stable indefinitely—I’ll be able to verify that over the course of the winter. In a few months—sometime in the spring—I plan to coat all the components with bitumen, which will also allow me to test how that interacts with the oil; however, I suspect that once the oil has polymerized, all the surfaces—both wood and metal—will be stable.
Additionally, to finish up the lower deck of the first hull, I glued on the final three elements.
The lower deck is now completely finished and ready to be covered by the upper deck; however, I haven’t yet decided whether to coat the entire interior space with bitumen (just a light application—nothing too heavy, simply to give it a bit of an "aged" look). I’m leaning toward "yes"...
01.11.2026
9/
Lighting.
I spent a long time debating whether or not to add lighting... I used to think it was all just a frivolous gimmick. But then I came across these flexible, 360-degree LED strips with a warm glow on AliExpress, and I decided it was worth a try. I was happy with the initial tests, though the brightness was a bit too intense. I made some adjustments, and now the light emanating from the cabins doesn't look like a harsh spotlight—it’s more like the soft, yellowish glow of a kerosene lamp or a candle. The goal wasn't just to reveal what’s inside (though that’s part of it), but to highlight the rays of light and create a sense of depth. It’s a shame that the photos can’t quite capture what I see in person—the light looks dimmer on a standard camera, yet overly bright when shot on a phone. In reality, it truly looks as if someone has lit a candle inside; rather than fully illuminating the cabin interiors, the light serves to outline silhouettes against the darkness—just as it would have been in real life. By the way, I still haven't decided what to use to finish the upper deck...
On the left is Tung oil; on the right, Danish oil. The Tung oil has a browner, darker tone—it’s a pleasant shade, but the texture ends up more uniform and darker than I would have liked. The Danish oil is lighter, with a slight beige-gray undertone, but it offers a nice texture that looks beautiful when accented with bitumen. Another advantage is that Danish oil dries faster and doesn’t retain its odor for as long. Furthermore, on the deck treated with Danish oil, the individual details—even those coated with Tung oil—remain more distinct and don’t just blur into a single, undifferentiated mass. Also, the bitumen edging around the details looks much better on the Danish oil finish. So, I’m leaning more toward the Danish oil, though the Tung oil looks good too...
By the way, I also made a couple more of the missing ladders... Incidentally, the phrase written on the matchsticks is very fitting, given that our power is currently being cut off quite often and for long periods—all because the accursed Russian occupiers are shelling our energy infrastructure. The phrase is: "Світло переможе темряву" - "Light will overcome Darkness."
So, regarding the lighting... I’ve already shown the diagram; it’s not complicated:
There are two 30 cm flexible LED strips. They emit a 360-degree glow with a warm light (reminiscent of a candle or a kerosene lamp). Since there is a resistor inside the USB connector, I had to purchase a splitter to connect the LEDs to the wiring. I soldered these wires to the splitter and to the terminals. The terminals were then screwed onto cylindrical inserts that I glued into the model's hull. These brass cylindrical inserts (nuts) are designed to receive the threaded rods (axles) extending from the display base. These rods serve to support the model and secure it to the display case. They thread into the brass inserts in the hull, pass downward through the keel, continue through brass columns (shaped like chess pawns), and then go through a wedge-shaped pedestal—which determines the model's angle of inclination—where they are secured in place with nuts. (The wedge itself is attached to the display base plate using separate screws.) The wires from a USB Type-C connector—which will be mounted onto the display base plate—will be attached to the nuts securing the threaded rods beneath the wedge. This will allow for the connection of a power bank. All the connectors were purchased via AliExpress.
To test everything, I simply attached the wires from a Type-C connector to the axes. Inside the housing, I then connected a USB splitter—which powers some LED strips—to those same axes.
I placed the strips inside U-shaped channels. Where I wanted light, I positioned them slightly lower to achieve a wider illumination angle; where I didn’t want any light, I simply covered them with a strip of black hornbeam wood.
Here is a comparison taken on a phone, in daylight and in the dark:
And here is a comparison shot taken with a camera (unfortunately, while the quality is much better than that of a phone and the color reproduction is more accurate, the representation of lighting brightness is practically non-existent—even though, in reality, the light is quite clearly visible):
Overall, however, I am pleased with the result, as well as the color of the parts after the oil finish. I’ll wait a good while—several months—and then apply a bitumen coating; the final appearance should end up looking very much like a museum piece... at least, that’s what I’m really hoping for!
And with that, this part, chapter, and entire volume have come to a close. The primary work on the decks is finished, and I am now moving on to a new volume, which will cover the sides, railings, and the securing of the upper decks on both hulls. This is a highly complex stage—one I’ve been thinking about almost constantly ever since I decided to make the decks removable—so stay tuned.