перевод
Сhapter 2. Planking.
07-12.10.2010
To avoid delaying the process, while there's time and motivation, I’ll be accelerating the submission of new material.
Before diving into the repetitive work with the ports, I tackled a few other tasks. I calculated the rudder area.
And I finished the work on the inner side of the hull.
But for the production of the gunports, I needed the final finish wood. I didn't want to paint the ship yellow, so I initially searched for wood with a pleasant natural color, close to an orange-yellow hue.
After some time searching, I came across a few parquet planks made of a wood I had never even heard of before. It's called Daru (or Garu). Incredibly dense, almost like stone. When working with it, the wood had a wonderful scent, so much so that it was a real pleasure to work with. The color varied between the different planks, which allowed me to play around with combinations to create an interesting look.
The second discovery was pink pearwood. It was exactly what I was looking for—a dark, rich color that completely captivated me. And just to jump ahead a bit, in 15 years I haven’t found anything quite like it. Since I didn’t have much of this pearwood, I decided to use it only for decorative elements, railings, and similar details.
The color turned out like this after applying oil. And again, looking ahead, I regret not leaving gaps in the planking. It would have looked really good. I thought I could carve out those gaps later, but once everything was glued, I realized it was impossible without having beveled the edges beforehand.
So, I cut the blanks for the gunports and began working on them. First, I set the horizontal level.
Then I cut the walls, glued them together, and attached them to the hull.
15-26.10.2010
And I repeated this process over 100 times! )))
Then I created a port with a window. However, I should mention that I will redo it because I am not satisfied with the result at the moment.
From this angle, it has such a cute little face with a smile.
29.10.2010
In total, I spent about 20 days working on the ports, and finally, everything was ready.
And all that was left was to putty everything and perfect the outlines.
But before that, it was necessary to close all the ports to prevent dust from entering the hull.
30.10.2010
Next, I applied an even layer of wood filler to the hull and then shaped it to the desired profile.
05.11.2010
I want to respond immediately to all those who are skeptical about this, specifically regarding the thickness of the layer of putty. To jump ahead, after 14 years, not a single planking strip has come loose. There are no raised areas, no cracks, and no steps. Everything is holding very securely. I glued the planking using PVA with the help of an iron, but I will discuss that later.
08.11.2010
Не могу не нарадоваться и не сообщить Вам, что наконец-то сегодня я получил посылку с материалом на корабль, а точнее - дару.
В ожиданиях, я просчитал количество реек, которое понадобится для обшивки. Забегая наперед, хочу уточнить, что ниже КВЛ только 2см будет покрыто дару. Все остальное - береза (думал вначале липой обшить, но береза тверже, потому выбрал ее). Так как ниже ватерлинии будет медная обшивка, я счел расточительством использовать не очень дешевого материал (дару), чтоб потом со скрипом в душе его перекрыть медью.
И в результате расчетов, в сумме понадобиться 210 реек дару и 120 березы. Длина реек зажата в размер плашек, и составляет 400 и 500 мм соответственно. Естественно, что это количество всего на 10% больше и заготавливаться будет существенно тоже больше.
Надеюсь материал будет благосклонен к моим рукам и действиям, и сломанных реек будет очень мало. На готове циркулярка, утюг, чайник, клей... ну и конечно же модель.
09.11.2010
A total of 36 pieces. At the same time, I also cut birch (it’s difficult to calculate because the beams are different, in a word, taking into account that the result will be 120 slats of 50 cm each)
I couldn’t resist taking a photo of the entire arsenal.
19.11.2010
Before the planking, I secured the stem. The only thing is that significant adjustments will be made to it. For now, it’s as it came in the kit, but later I will shape it according to the anatomy.
28.02.2011
01.03.2011
Since I didn't have much Daru, I used birch for the inner layer of velvet and for the planking below the waterline.
For the first layer of planking, I made a layer under the velvet. This layer will be covered with black paint, so I used Daru with a pattern that I didn't particularly like. The one that was very beautiful I used in the area that won't be painted.
I preheated the strips with an iron to bend them to the desired profile.
To avoid waiting too long for the glue to set, I used the method of "welding" the strips with an iron. The principle is quite simple. PVA glue is applied to the strip, then it is positioned and pressed against the surface with a hot iron. After a few seconds, the glue heats up and "welds" the strip to the surface. The same method can be used to detach it. Therefore, when using this method, you need to listen for the hissing sound to determine when the strip has adhered properly. If you leave it too long, it may come loose again, and if you don’t leave it long enough, it won’t stick. The skill comes with experience. However, it is a very effective way to quickly adhere strips.
All the strips were glued using this method. Starting from the bulwarks down to the underwater part, which will be covered with copper sheathing, and continuing throughout the entire hull, as described below.
01.03.2011
23.05.2011
Slowly but steadily, the sheathing progressed, and by summer, I had covered the entire underwater part.
This is not the final sanding yet; everything will still be refined to perfection. There was a small defect in the rear part, but I fixed it. Since this will be painted, I didn't redo everything but only addressed the indentation. There are 1,700 details on board... let's continue!
24.05.2011
As I mentioned, I made the bulwarks in two layers. Where the edge could be visible, I glued Daru, while the inner layer was entirely made of birch.
02.06.2011
25.08.2011
After finishing the preparations, I once again started preparing the strips.
21.09.2011
Then I glued all the remaining barhouts in the same way, specifically their inner layer.
22.09.2011
I tried to work from both sides simultaneously to maintain symmetry.
23.09.2011
For further cladding, it was necessary to pre-make the blocks located inside the hull. From the photo, I think the principle is clear.
26.09.2011
The strip marked with a pencil is a temporary strip. It will be removed after sanding, and a rail will be glued in its place.
09.10.2011
Step by step, I covered all the space under the rails, and after that, I could sand everything down.
I would like to clarify once again that the light-colored strips marked with a pencil are temporary strips. They will be removed and replaced with the railings, as well as the scrolls and thin decorative strips.
11.11.2011
Today is an exclusive date: 11.11.11 at 11:11:11.111. There haven’t been as many ones since the year 1111! Did everyone manage to make a wish?
Now, back to business. I have finally finished the cladding on the second side. Now there are 2,135 parts on board.
After sanding, I could install the outer layer of the bulwarks.
16.09.2012
After nearly 10 months of pause, I’m back.
Regarding the barhoots: the upper ones are straightforward—three planks, each 4 mm thick. The middle barhoots consist of two parts. The upper part follows the principle of the upper barhoot (one plank, 4 mm thick), while the lower part is a locking piece. This part is slightly thicker, creating a small step with the upper part, measuring 9 mm in thickness. The lower barhoot is similar to the middle one, with one 4 mm thick plank on top and a locking piece below. The only difference here is that there are two locking belts. After the last one is mounted, everything will be sanded down, and the cladding will acquire a distinct texture and relief.
24.09.2012
05.10.2012
16.10.2012
After a long and dusty work of sanding the surface, I finally finished the final cladding. Well, almost. I took the model outside into the sunlight and took several photos with the best possible white balance. And here’s how beautifully the Daru looks in high resolution... I like it, do you?
This is not yet the final sanding, but I couldn't wait to show the result!
There are 2,300 parts on board... to be continued.
16.10.2012
28.10.2012
Progress was extremely slow at that time due to my heavy workload. I completed the area beneath the stern.
11.11.2012
I also completed all the surfaces that will be painted. The stern is practically ready. After painting, all that’s left is to decorate it, install the windows, and add the columns.
24.11.2012
After finishing work on the stern, I moved on to the rails. According to the anatomy, there are many different types, but at this scale, it's hard to see the exact details, so I tried to replicate something as close as possible. To begin, I removed all the temporary planks.
08.12.2012
I made the shaped planks (or rails) using a simple method: by scraping. First, I cut the profile into the knife blade, and then, by running the blade perpendicularly over the wood, I removed layers until the plank took on the desired profile.
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10.11.2013
After almost a YEAR, I finally got back to working on the model. Moving, renovations, and travel... There were times when I didn’t have either the time or the space to work on it.
But here's what I managed to accomplish back then:
After a closer look at the ship's anatomy, I decided to adjust a few details:
- I reshaped the knighthead to be trapezoidal (tapered from 6.5 mm to 4.5 mm at the base),
- I slimmed down the sternpost from 7 mm to 5 mm vertically, and along the keel for 7 cm, tapering it down to 5 mm.
- I will correct the stem later.
For a change of pace, I decided to start working on the stairs. (Spoiler alert: I didn’t finish them any time soon)...
While preparing for painting, I decided to smooth out the surface below the waterline (KWL) once again.
I initially outlined the paint lines with tape... But the model never got painted—for many years!
For almost 10 years, I didn’t touch the ship at all. I even moved it to my parents' house, where it stayed wrapped in packaging film all that time. I wasn’t sure if it would sit there for another decade. There was no time for hobbies whatsoever—I spent all my free time traveling. But when the war began and borders were closed, that was taken from me.
But exactly ten years later, I returned to the build... and I’ll go on to show what else I accomplished over the next couple of years before putting the project on hold once again. So, there’s still plenty of interesting stuff to come.
Next...