перевод
Chapter 6. Lower Deck p.1
Sanding the outer surface of the case.
Before continuing with the inner surface, I finished the outer surface.
At first, I cut the edges of the frames along the line of the bottom board with a straight blade so that they were one arc, and not different lengths.
At the back - there is a template and you can do it using it. And in other places this arc goes along the edge (chamfer) that we did on the false keel.
Protectionism is my middle name. )))
In the front and back, you need to alternate between a hard straight, cylindrical and soft sandpaper base depending on the surface. And to speed up the process, change the sandpaper often.
And in the main central part you need a rigid base (wooden beam).
And in places where it is difficult to get to, I put sandpaper several times.
I made a temporary keel not only in order to remove it before scanning,
but it also eliminates the risk of damage to a real keel during the
grinding process, especially if the grain is large.
And by the way, about abrasiveness. I use cloth-based sandpaper first
grain 80, then 150 and then 240. Or 120 and then 240. Locally some zone
can refine 320, but only locally (to remove micro-scratches) where can
not get well 240. That's all for now... I think that for 2 days I will
grind it and after - I will show the result. Don't switch))
28.05.2025
I think tomorrow it will be ready and you need to try to scan the case on Friday. In the meantime, some useful moments for those who will be assembling this ship. (but this also applies to other POF).
Then, after rough grinding with grain 80 and 120, I removed the temporary keel.
* By the way, to the remark that 80 and 120 are a lot for a soft case... so, do not forget that this is cherries. She is very tough and tight. When I passed with grain 150, almost everything stood still, but with 80 things went faster.
Now there is access to those places where this keel prevented us.
Plus, the view has become better and from this better polishing control.
When I made frames, I lengthened the grinding place by 5 mm, but I still took a conductor that shows where the body cut lines will be...
.... and after putting it to the body - applied the lines.
And from them you can immediately determine the place that I polished above the cut or not.
And in some places I raised the level of grinding a little bit.
Tomorrow, if everything goes well, I will post the result of grinding
and polishing the case. I already see that he is just awesome, but you
need to finish something...
UPD: Another life hack for finding flaws that you can usually miss. A flashlight helps a lot with this!
So, can you congratulate me, I finished grinding the hull.
It took 3 days. But the result more than rules me!
I thought difficulties would be ahead (due to moments with 2nd and 3rd
frames), but in fact I spent the whole day tinkering with only one
stern.
Before coating the oil, I will still check everything with a microscope,
but at the moment - everything is smooth, smooth and, most importantly,
symmetrical!
30.05.2025
I just scanned the hull with a 3D scanner. I don't know yet what will
happen, I'm waiting for the Stl file to be glued together. I'll tell you
later what I'll do with this scan, I hope everything will work out.
Lower Deck.
30.05.2025
Well, let's continue... while I wait for the scan file, I decided to make knees.
Let's just say... It is difficult to give any recommendations in
construction, especially in their geometry. Here it is better to study
what knees are, and how they looked, because in the set they are not all
of the correct shape. And to achieve the correct geometry, you need to
try on 100500 times after small corrections of the form, and only after
that everything will fall into place.
But here's one clue for you. Knees were placed after the inner plating
with boards! That is, they were NOT put directly on the frames!
Therefore, if we make a hull without boards inside, then there should be
a distance between the knee and frames in the thickness of the board!
And if the knee falls on the board, then naturally, this distance should
not be.
So far, I have installed them dry, but did not glue them. Since I have not yet calculated all the positions of the lower deck parts.
And if with the front knees everything is plus or minus clear, then the geometry of the back (the one from the kit) just makes you think... what is it?
What side should it fit there? Well ok... I removed everything superfluous and posted it as it logically should have been.
*And now, a little lyrical digression...
Before installing the lower deck, I need to do a bolt simulation. But!
Before imitating bolts, I need to understand how it will all look like
oil... And for this you need samples... And for this you need to make
probes! I want to file imitation frames from the remains of the material
in order to maximize the appearance of the case on the probe and cover
it with different oils, different degrees of dilution and different
amounts of layer... to understand which will look better. And this takes
time, as the layers need time to dry out... And I did not have a very
good time, since I can prepare the details of the decks in a couple of
days, and it takes weeks to wait for the oil to dry. And in order not to
waste time, I am thinking of continuing to study Victory. It's just
that in the near future with the second case (the one that will be after
scanning), too, everything is not so fast. Therefore, most likely, work
on Victory will be more logical so as not to waste time. In short...
dilemma)))
01.06.2025
Lower deck.Today I made probes and covered with 4 types of oil, also in different dilutions... The results will be later, it is necessary for this time, but for now I began to prepare the details of the lower deck.
Some details were cut into the area with light wood and also with an unpleasant texture of the drawing, so I decided to redo them. They are not difficult, because it took a little time.
Also, remade one (medium) beams for the same reason.
And here I found the first significant discrepancy in the instruction manual.
Who will collect a set from AliExpress then I will save you a lot of
time searching for non-existent details. Instead of the necessary
details DL 6, 14 and 8, other numbers are marked in the instructions.
The image above indicates and visually shows typos in the instructions.
So that I had to waste time and deal with this moment. Well, in total,
there are 31 parts on the lower deck (excluding boards and stairs).
At the moment, I have eliminated all the holders and now all this beauty needs to be reserved for the hull, and naturally for each other.
One point that before installing the lower deck - you need to make an imitation of bolts. And I will just look at the probes to see if I like everything, how this imitation looks. Plus, I really hope that everything will sit well and nothing will have to be redone, well, experiments with oil will be effective...
02.06.2025
We continue to consult the anatomy and do as much as possible as in a book. Bolts fasten different parts of the case and you need to transfer their positions correctly. If you are guided by the image from below, the process is not difficult.
First of all, you need to make an imitation of bolts on the keelson and false keel. To do this, I used a slightly larger pen than for boards. Here are both for comparison. And visually it is clear that the cylindrical puncture is of different diameters.
Checked what it would look like and...
... made simulated bolts on the keelon, false keels and on the mast stop.
*By the way, the top photo shows the difference between a large and a small cylinder.
It was all done with a pink pen, where the diameter is larger). And now,
on all boards you need to make an imitation with a blue handle (where
the cylinder diameter is smaller).
As you were able to notice, the nails beat one nail for each frame in a checkerboard pattern (either higher or lower). I redrawn the image a little from the anatomy and from this I already did all the imitation of nails inside the case.
The 4th board, which holds the upper deck beams, has the simplest locks. Firstly, they were already so in the set (you can't redo it). And secondly, this belt was reinforced from the outside with Main wale (by the way, it is depicted in the diagram above (outside). And plus - this belt was very strongly strengthened by the knees, both horizontal and vertical. Therefore, there was more than enough rigidity here. And most importantly, this belt will be practically invisible due to the knees.
On the 1st belt, (at the lowest) - there was also not a difficult connection, but longer (this is in anatomy).
On the 2nd belt (not visible on anatomy), but logically there should have been a complex lock. Since this and the 3rd belt are very powerful and had to carry a heavy load. For this, complex castles were placed in such places.
On the third belt, similarly the same lock, for the same reasons.
So the imitation nails on the inside boards are complete...
And my doubts crept in, but is it necessary to do imitation of bolts on the joints of the frames... according to a modest estimate, there should be more than 3,000 punctures with a pen... I will gather my thoughts and strength and I must decide... otherwise, you won't stop at half the road!
*Now everything is practically invisible, especially from a distance, but... this is before the oil coating. After the oil, everything will be clearly visible and imitation of bolts and nails and locks (already checked on the probes).
04.06.2025
Imitation of bolts on frames.
Continuing to the last post to close the issue with bots and insolences. It remains only to make bolts on the knees, but I will show this after trying on the beams of the lower deck.
From the anatomy it can be seen that the bolts on the frame lock are placed in a certain way and judging by the options that I met on the forum, many did it as on the bottom diagram (first option).
But, I am inclined more towards my option (number two). Which is more
practical with physical and mechanical properties. Since the bolts
create a larger wrap shoulder, which strengthens the connection.
I created a small template by which I was able to make punctures (imitation of bolts) more or less repeatably the same way.
I was mentally prepared that it would take a very long time. According to the calculation, punctures should be 3000. But! I also took into account those that are outside (we are still taking them away), and plus there are many more boards that block the bolt and there is no need to do it there. So, in 1.5 hours I made all the imitation bolts inside the case! And that's success. And looking at the result, I do not regret!
To see something, I used a flashlight and shone at an angle.
By the way, in the photo above - you can see the front 3 frames, which
were without connections (and they should have been) and after I made an
imitation of these connections - they fit perfectly into the
surrounding view.
Without oil, all these punctures are very poorly visible. It was
necessary to find such an angle so that at a certain angle of light the
result was visible...
... but overall, I'm pleased with how it worked out.
So now, you can do the lower deck, hurray!
06.06.2025
Lower deck fixation.
Well, we continue the lower deck.
There is inconsistency and contradiction in anatomy.
In Alerta, this can be applied to the rear beams on the lower deck (where the powder magazine was). This level is slightly below the main level of the lower deck.
But on the main part of the lower deck, a little different. Since the frame also has a corner with a frame that is not vertical, the entire beam is wide enough to interrupt the skin boards so that we make the side more fragile. Therefore, it is more logical that only part of the beam lies on the frame (and a small board is interrupted. In this case, this is shown in the right plan, purple board). And part of the beams lay on the upper power board. Thus, beams touched the frames, but did not greatly interrupt the power boards.
That's why I did it.
On the lower level of the lower deck, I made a small gap between the beam and the frame, simulating the location under the beam of the board.
And on the upper level of the lower deck - it will be a little different, but more on that later. In the meantime, what it looks like.
To glue the transverse beams, you need to make suitable grooves and use a ruler to glue them at an angle of 90 degrees.
Then I tried everything on in place and clipped to the length I needed.
At the inspection, Nelson said that everything is ok)))
Without glue, I tried everything together.
By the way, how the perpendicularity and parallelism of beams is created, everything is simple.
And here's another fragment without glue is approximate in place.
I don't know if this was possible, most likely not (I haven't seen this in anatomies), I'm talking about the fact that beams did not coincide with frames. That is, beams should not logically be in the space between the frames, but in the kit so. I do this because I do not want to deal with fixing all this, it will take a lot of time. But if so, then this is a big miscalculation of the manufacturer, but as it is. continue on.
08.06.2025
I continue to prepare the lower deck, moving further along the beams.
The knot at the mast attachment point is slightly more complicated.
First, you need to remove the rounded corners from the cutter (making
them straight) and prepare a thin bar with a protrusion.
Then I glued one joint on the PVA...
... and then glued the second connection and it was necessary to cut off the excess, calculating the distance between the parts.
The finished element is first fitted and glued to one beam...
... and then it is adjusted to the distance between the beams, cuted and glued to the second beam. After that, the fit is checked without glue.
Now, all beams with all horizontal elements are ready!
To keep these racks and not fall off, I reinforced the glue seam with a steel pin (with a rough metal texture). And he fixed all this on CA gel.
Then he adjusted the height in place by trimming and checking many times until he achieved a perfect landing.
As a result, I got this.
There are similar actions with paired beams.
Only kuting in place is harder.
The final fragment of the thaw was a beam, which served to strengthen the connection of beams under the cauldron where food was prepared.
In the drawings, it was slightly different from what the manufacturer offers, I repeated the anatomy option.
I finally checked everything without glue and it will be possible to prepare everything to glue to the ship's hull.
P.S. Oh yes, you need not forget the imitation of bolts on all beam connections and elements that were attached to them.
09.06.2025
And first, let's close the issue with the knees. I made imitation bolts on them and pasted them into the appropriate places. Earlier I showed a diagram of bolts on knees, nothing complicated here...
... continued in the next part...
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