перевод
Chapter 22. 3D Modeling and Printing.
3D Modeling. Part 1/3.
So...
I modeled in Blender 3D, and then processed the STL files for printing using Anycubic slicer software.
Since it doesn't matter how many parts you put in for printing, and the only thing that matters is the height of the longest part (the duration of the process depends on this), I made a number of other parts at the same time so that I could print them simultaneously.
16.04.2026
I thought I'd gradually begin modeling, but once I've started, it's hard to stop... ))))
In this part, I'll show the anchors and other small metal parts from the ship. I've practically done everything... All that's left is to model the cannons with their carriage parts (rims, etc.) and the small hand cannons... and that's it!
Well, here are the remaining metal parts:
UPD: The part that covers the connection between the deck and the mast will not be metal, but covered with fabric, so it does not matter what it is made of, but it is easier to print it.
UPD: Not everything fits, but I hope the first attempt will be successful....
16.04.2026
Friends, I've finally updated my original Alert anatomy drawings, which have been adapted to the Trident kit dimensions, which correspond to a 1:48 scale.
I previously presented this work, but since then I've made many significant changes, additions, and corrections to the anatomy.
The original can be downloaded from Google Drive. Below, I'll show you a sample of what's changed.
Red - The mechanism for raising the anchor from the water. Even the original drawings and the anatomy itself mention a duplicate mechanism that helped raise the anchor's clevis. The photo below clearly shows this. This mechanism (the cathead) is described in detail in books, particularly in Wolfram zu Mondfeld. Few people do this, but the point is that this part is necessary for safely pulling the anchor alongside without damaging it. On larger ships, this was different and was called a fish davit (a massive beam that essentially served the same function).
Light Green - Rudder Hinges. I already mentioned that I increased the length of two of the rudder hinges so they would extend onto the planking, or more precisely, onto the beams underneath. This is also indicated in the anatomy drawings, but it wasn't used in the main view, which is a shame.
Dark Green - I added two types of cannons: 4- and 6-pounder. The ship carried 10 of the former until 1778, when it was re-armed with 12 6-pounder cannons.
Brown - I made corrections to the smokestack and handrails where there were errors in the anatomy.
Purple - Changed the scale.
Mustard (light brown) - I completely redesigned the central grate, as the anatomy doesn't include that specific type.
Light Blue - Anchors. I added three more types (sizes). Because, as I already said, there were at least 4 different anchors on the ship, and not two identical ones, as in the set.
16.04.2026
I've finished modeling. This time, it's the main and hand cannon.
Half-Pounder Swivel Gun.
Since the hand cannon is very small, about 2 cm, I expressed the
rings a little more, otherwise they would merge into a single array
after copper plating.
6 Pounder Gun.
Basic rims and rings. In the photo above, from right to left: 1) rim for the recoil rope; 2) rim for fixing the hook with the rigging; 3) rim with a ring on the deck for the rear rigging of the gun; 4) rigging rim 0.7 mm; 5) rigging rim 0.8 mm. (1-3 rims 0.6 mm).
The cannon even has a channel for the gunpowder from the fuse (let it be so).
Everything is ready for printing and copper plating.
Now a few words about 3D printing.
After modeling, we have STL files that need to be prepared in the Anycubic printing slicer.
The slicer parameters (Anycubic Photon Workshop) are as follows:
However, curing with UV light is essential, and a regular manicure lamp will do the trick.
Remember, printing time directly depends on the height of the item you're printing...
As you can see, there are almost five copies of almost every part on the table, except for the cannons and anchors. These are for my two models and one other, plus spares for possible defects during printing or post-processing. (By the way, not a single part was defective during printing.)
An important point is to install the supports correctly. There are some basic rules, but you can find them online, and you'll only understand the nuances with practice.
The huge advantage is that, firstly, you can print an infinite number of the required parts, which is very difficult to do individually by hand. The parts will be absolutely identical. More importantly, the thickness of the parts can be as small as 0.2-0.3 mm. The important thing is that such parts must first be separated from their holders while still wet and exposed between two pieces of glass (or by other means) to fix their shape so that they don't deform during exposure. By the way, it is better to remove the supports (holders) before curing and when they are wet - this reduces the risk of plastic tearing off the part.
Now all these parts are waiting to be copper plated and blackened...
17.06.2026
For those who love to read and reflect.
Many will understand that at a certain point, you start wondering what you'd like to build next (and many get so carried away that they don't even finish their current projects). Naturally, I won't start a new one until I finish my current project, but I still can't resist dreaming.
I've had a monograph on the brig Le Cygne 1806 for many years. I really like this ship and have wanted to build one for a long time, even before Victory and Alert. Here, by the way, is a visual representation of the difference in size between a cutter and a brig in 1/48th scale. The size difference isn't that big, but the brig is much larger.
Two factors have been holding me back all this time... The first is the carronades. I didn't like them until recently, but! I've researched the subject, learned the history, thoroughly studied the mechanics and all the advantages... and I really like them now. The second factor is the Duck... The Swan's figurehead is just a real disappointment. So I started digging through monographs. It turns out that about 60 brigs similar to this one were built by the French, 20 of them were complete copies.
So I decided to find out which of my sister ships could accommodate the figurehead I wanted. It had to be a brig with a female name and carry carronades (some had either fully armed or partially mounted cannons). Working with Artificial Intelligence, we decided that Le Faune 1805 would be such a brig. This brig could carry a female figurehead, a nymph, so I decided to generate in Gemini my vision of the ideal figurehead for this brig. I gave it drawings of the forward section without the figurehead and a photo of a brig model with a different figurehead, so it would take just the model and insert a female figurehead, which I described in words. I described in great detail what she looked like, her pose, where her arms and legs were, where she was looking, and to add a few branches and leaves, because she was a forest nymph... and I was simply shocked by the result!!! Here's what I got:
The idea of replacing the figurehead was indirectly inspired by @SASHA, who is building a similar brig based on these plans, but named Le Favori. Hi Sasha, here's a working diagram for you on how to design a figurehead for your model.
So, if I ever build anything else (if I have the time and opportunity), naturally after finishing my current projects, it will be the Le Faune 1805 brig (based on Le Cygne's monograph) with a figurehead like this...
...if I only knew how to make it))) but that's another story.
18.06.2026
Judging by the fact that several people have contacted me via private message, I've decided to explain in more detail how I generate figureheads in Gemini.
1. You should have a photo of the finished model you want to make, or something very similar. Preferably from a diagonal angle. Let's take the photo I generated (I used exactly the same one for my version, except it had a Cyclops figurehead).
2. In the AI task, you need to specify that it should not change anything (neither the model, nor the background, nor the tone) and simply replace the figurehead.
3. Ideally, you should upload the model drawings without the figurehead and specify that it take into account the position of the parts, rigging, bowsprit, and stem.
4. Add a reference image of the figurehead you want, or verbally explain what you want to see. If the reference image contains something you want to change, it's best to do it in a second pass. So, first let the AI insert a new figure into the model, and then you can change what you'd like in the reference image. If you're describing what you want to see from scratch, be very detailed. What's the pose, where is the right hand, where is the left, where are the legs, what are they holding, what is the clothing, etc. If something isn't right, make adjustments.
I'll use another brig model being built by a fellow modeler as an example, to show how I did it. Sasha sent me a couple of photos. In one, the girl is leaning on her hands and has a mermaid tail, but since that doesn't quite fit the name Le Favori, I made the legs normal. Sasha also sent a bust of a Greek warrior, and here it perfectly matches the abstract, masculine name of the ship. I asked the AI to add a body in Greek attire, a shield with a coat of arms, which fits the theme of good luck. Since the sword in the hand is too long, I wrote the warrior as the one leading the way, with the sword in its sheath. And here are two options:
I think the second option with the warrior would fit right in with the title of the Favorite. Sasha, as they say, is yours)))
11.07.2026
This will be of interest to both beginners (those just starting out or considering buying a printer) and experienced users who might learn something new from it.
I currently have two printers:
The M3+ with a 6MP sensor and FEP film, and the M5s with 12MP and ACF film.
These are two completely different devices, each with its own pros and cons. I'll share my experience using them, but this isn't a manual or a recommendation. It's merely an experience and a starting point for those who are completely new to this topic or who can't set up the perfect print.
I previously attached a screenshot of the M3+ settings, and with these settings, I printed small parts perfectly (shown above). When I got a second printer (the M5), I decided to print the same set on it, but I adjusted the settings for it, considering that it was supposedly much better. BUT! Several prints were unsuccessful. The base would fall off, or parts would break away from the supports... And I realized that they can write a lot of things on paper, but in the end I came to my proven settings and practically duplicated them for the second printer (although it is considered better, these settings were completely suitable for both the M5 and M3+).
So, the old M3 printer printed small parts perfectly, but when printing cannons and anchors (the print took 13.5 hours), there were defects.
Therefore, the parts must be exposed to the light invertedly, first with a 30-second exposure and then with a one-minute exposure several times. Unexposed parts are fragile and can scratch and damage each other simply by friction.
Some parts, like anchors, have flat areas and to prevent them from twisting, they need to be exposed first on the side opposite to the twisting.
The entire bottom section is covered in marks from the holders, but when removed, there's no defect because I chose holders with a ball. This area will also be sanded on flat surfaces, making it convenient and quick.
And in this case, I also replaced the supports. I had to completely reprint all the guns, because the first time (on the M3), I installed too many of them in a very bad location, where polishing them would be very difficult. But this time (on the M5), I placed them completely differently, and here's my logic.
And the most important difference between the two printers is the texture of complex (non-flat) surfaces.
19.07.2026
While it's summer and I have access to a permanently open balcony, I decided to print as many parts as possible, as printing requires good ventilation. I haven't printed everything yet, but the lion's share is ready.
I printed a lot of parts on Victory, and they will be painted a deep matte black (and some in matte brown). So, I'm not against painting plastic parts, but only at scales of 1:100 and above. I've prepared all the parts for copper plating for both Alert hulls, and some have already been completed.
This article is a more complete summary of the entire process, from modeling the parts to printing, (painting), and copper plating.
All the results from Victory will be in the corresponding thread when I finish with Alert. I'm talking about copper plating the plastic parts in the Alert thread. I've finally completed all the experiments and found the best conditions to ensure I'm happy with the results.
And this is the number of parts printed so far for both models. (That's not all; some are still hidden somewhere, and some (the defective ones) were scrapped. I dread to imagine how many parts were printed, taking into account trials, printing experiments, and errors, but I'd guess it was thousands...
Yes, a printer isn't cheap, but it saves time on creating repeatable parts exponentially. Especially if you're building not just one but several models.
But the most important thing for me is the ability to create metal parts (copper-coated plastic) of complex shapes in large quantities with perfect repeatability. What else do you need...
Next ...
23 - Working with Metal