22 - 3D Modeling and Printing - Naval Cutter Alert [1777] 1:48 build log

 

Chapter 22. 3D Modeling and Printing.

 

3D Modeling. Part 1/3.

Just so you understand, it took me just two days to create everything you'll see in the first part, including prepping for printing. I'm saying this because I definitely couldn't have made these same parts for both models in two days using the traditional method... and for those skeptical of new technologies, here's a clear example of how to save time without sacrificing quality... and maybe even achieving better quality!

So...

I modeled in Blender 3D, and then processed the STL files for printing using Anycubic slicer software.

Since it doesn't matter how many parts you put in for printing, and the only thing that matters is the height of the longest part (the duration of the process depends on this), I made a number of other parts at the same time so that I could print them simultaneously.

These parts (top and bottom) could be made from copper or brass plate, but achieving symmetry and precision by hand is more difficult than this method. Let's see if this thickness works... 0.2 mm

I always check one copy for compatibility and errors before printing...

Then I prepare everything for printing, duplicating everything in the required quantity. To be on the safe side, I always print with a margin for defects (both during and after printing). And since I'm making parts for two models at once, I print, for example, not four parts, but six. Or if I only need one part, I print at least one more as a reserve.

I recommend placing small details around the perimeter. 1) It's easier to tear off later. 2) The film is more intact there. 3) The film stretches less during printing.

I myself am interested in how it will be after copper plating and blackening... we'll see later.

16.04.2026

 

3D Modeling. Part 2/3.

I thought I'd gradually begin modeling, but once I've started, it's hard to stop... ))))
In this part, I'll show the anchors and other small metal parts from the ship. I've practically done everything... All that's left is to model the cannons with their carriage parts (rims, etc.) and the small hand cannons... and that's it!

By the way, there were at least four anchors on the cutter (maybe five). I decided to make four, as indicated in the anatomy (and not two as in the kit, which are also identical). And I'll place two small ones on the Channel... but more on that later.

By the way, this shot was taken by accident... it has nothing to do with common sense, but it's funny...

 Well, here are the remaining metal parts:

UPD: The part that covers the connection between the deck and the mast will not be metal, but covered with fabric, so it does not matter what it is made of, but it is easier to print it.

Now, just add some support and get printing... I'm already itching to copper-plat them...

UPD: Not everything fits, but I hope the first attempt will be successful....

 

16.04.2026

 

Friends, I've finally updated my original Alert anatomy drawings, which have been adapted to the Trident kit dimensions, which correspond to a 1:48 scale.

I previously presented this work, but since then I've made many significant changes, additions, and corrections to the anatomy.

The original can be downloaded from Google Drive. Below, I'll show you a sample of what's changed.

Blue - The ship had only one boat (a cutter). The second one shown in the anatomy has no relation whatsoever (neither to scale nor in dimensions). Besides, I've definitely seen this boat in another anatomy, line for line. In my drawings, I placed the boat above the central grating. Later, I'll add details of the boat's holding platform to the drawings.

Red - The mechanism for raising the anchor from the water. Even the original drawings and the anatomy itself mention a duplicate mechanism that helped raise the anchor's clevis. The photo below clearly shows this. This mechanism (the cathead) is described in detail in books, particularly in Wolfram zu Mondfeld. Few people do this, but the point is that this part is necessary for safely pulling the anchor alongside without damaging it. On larger ships, this was different and was called a fish davit (a massive beam that essentially served the same function).

Light Green - Rudder Hinges. I already mentioned that I increased the length of two of the rudder hinges so they would extend onto the planking, or more precisely, onto the beams underneath. This is also indicated in the anatomy drawings, but it wasn't used in the main view, which is a shame.

Dark Green - I added two types of cannons: 4- and 6-pounder. The ship carried 10 of the former until 1778, when it was re-armed with 12 6-pounder cannons.

Brown - I made corrections to the smokestack and handrails where there were errors in the anatomy.

Purple - Changed the scale.

Mustard (light brown) - I completely redesigned the central grate, as the anatomy doesn't include that specific type.

Light Blue - Anchors. I added three more types (sizes). Because, as I already said, there were at least 4 different anchors on the ship, and not two identical ones, as in the set.

The drawings are printed on A0 paper (841 x 1189 mm), so if you print them at this size, you'll have the true dimensions of all the parts at a scale of 1:48.

 

16.04.2026

 

3D Modeling. Part 3/3. Final.

I've finished modeling. This time, it's the main and hand cannon.

Half-Pounder Swivel Gun.

Since the hand cannon is very small, about 2 cm, I expressed the rings a little more, otherwise they would merge into a single array after copper plating.


6 Pounder Gun.

Basic rims and rings. In the photo above, from right to left: 1) rim for the recoil rope; 2) rim for fixing the hook with the rigging; 3) rim with a ring on the deck for the rear rigging of the gun; 4) rigging rim 0.7 mm; 5) rigging rim 0.8 mm. (1-3 rims 0.6 mm).

 The cannon even has a channel for the gunpowder from the fuse (let it be so).

Everything is ready for printing and copper plating.

 

 

Now a few words about 3D printing.

After modeling, we have STL files that need to be prepared in the Anycubic printing slicer.

The slicer parameters (Anycubic Photon Workshop) are as follows:

I print on an Anycubic Photon M3 Plus 3D printer with a 20-micron layer thickness. I initially used Anycubic Water-Wash Resin, but I switched to the new Anycubic Water-Wash Resin 2.0 HD gray. It's convenient because it doesn't require alcohol removal; regular water is fine.

However, curing with UV light is essential, and a regular manicure lamp will do the trick.

I use a mirror for even illumination.

Remember, printing time directly depends on the height of the item you're printing...

...so it doesn't matter how much space is filled on the table—the key is the height! So, if you need a lot of copies, print them all at once—it'll be faster.

 As you can see, there are almost five copies of almost every part on the table, except for the cannons and anchors. These are for my two models and one other, plus spares for possible defects during printing or post-processing. (By the way, not a single part was defective during printing.)

An important point is to install the supports correctly. There are some basic rules, but you can find them online, and you'll only understand the nuances with practice.

The huge advantage is that, firstly, you can print an infinite number of the required parts, which is very difficult to do individually by hand. The parts will be absolutely identical. More importantly, the thickness of the parts can be as small as 0.2-0.3 mm. The important thing is that such parts must first be separated from their holders while still wet and exposed between two pieces of glass (or by other means) to fix their shape so that they don't deform during exposure. By the way, it is better to remove the supports (holders) before curing and when they are wet - this reduces the risk of plastic tearing off the part.

 Now all these parts are waiting to be copper plated and blackened...