перевод
Chapter 18. On the Decks p.3
10.04.2026
While I'm waiting for the magnetic stirrer (again, because the first one didn't work), I'm continuing to work on the deck. I decided to drill holes for all the inputs and outputs, but with a milling machine for precision and speed.
But first, calibration. I installed the needle in the tip so the boards
run exactly lengthwise. I adjusted the position on one side and then the
other, alternately securing the clamps. Now, when the milling cutter
moves, it will either run along or perpendicular to the deck axis.
This way I cut a precise hole for the center grating.
I also marked the locations for drilling holes for the pins that will reinforce the bits.
Now, to securely fix the gratings without glue, you need to make an imitation of beams and carlings.
Visually, we are interested in the inner side, and since the difference will be almost invisible anywhere, I made the thicknesses the same for convenience.
The only difference was in the rear grating. Since I plan to install an interior light source, I don't want it to hit that grating. Therefore, the black box will completely isolate everything.
And here are a couple more macro photos of the final work with the bolts (weve) and nailing. A total of 1,914 bolts were installed (including 68 on the weve). It's not a lot, but each one had to be made individually, which changes the overall impression a bit. And the dowels aren't finished yet. Besides the ones near the sternpost, I still need to make the blue ones once I've glued up the blue hornbeam boards.
I'm just wondering by the look of the bolts on the weve... Even when they darken and oxidize, they'll still be visible against the black strip... I haven't decided yet if I like it this way, or after applying the bitumen, if I should darken them with Brass Black ...
23.04.2026
BITUMEN.
Someday, after another 100,500 tests and experiments, I'll write an article about bitumen... but for now, I'll share some exclusive information with my blog readers that you're unlikely to hear in full from anyone else.
Many people know that I want to make the second Alert building in a museum style... something like this museum piece:
...based on the principle that Dmitry Shevelev does, here is his model (below):
A quick introduction. What is bitumen? It's a pigment (essentially oil) diluted in a solvent.
So, what you need to know about bitumen:
1. If you do everything correctly before applying the bitumen (prepare the surface properly), the result is almost completely reversible within a short time. This is precisely what scares many people about using bitumen. The idea is that you can make the model very black or stained, and it won't look aged, but dirty. Well, if the surface is properly prepared, applying solvent with a brush to a fresh layer of bitumen can almost completely remove it. But after a day, this will no longer be possible.
2. Bitumen VERY clearly shows all defects, scratches, chips, and dents! Therefore, if the surface isn't perfectly prepared, it's best not to use bitumen, otherwise everything will be 100 times more visible!
3. Bitumen CANNOT be applied to bare wood. Bitumen should be applied one month after oiling. Sometimes it takes two months, sometimes two weeks... It all depends on the desired result, but if this is your first time, no sooner than one or two months!
4. The rougher the surface (sandpaper below 200 grit), the stronger the effect will be. And the smoother and more polished the surface (320 grit + steel wool 00 grit and higher), the lesser the effect will be.
5. The deeper the oil penetrates (brush application and long exposure), the thicker the film (which smooths the surface) and the lesser the effect. However, if the oil is applied with a cloth (especially if semi-dry) and wiped dry as quickly as possible, the effect is much stronger.
6. The effect also depends on the oil. Linseed and tung oil penetrate very deeply even in a short time, so the effect may be lesser. But with Danish and Teak (which don't penetrate deeply and dry quickly), the effect will be more visible.
7. By "effect," we mean the wood grain. If the grain isn't filled or smoothed, the pigment will be retained and will be more visible. If the pigment has nothing to adhere to, less of it will remain on the surface. We're talking about wood species similar to pear. On light-colored, soft, and highly porous woods, bitumen may behave differently.
8. But we haven't yet discussed the length of time the bitumen remains on the surface before the excess is removed. The same applies here: the longer the bitumen remains on the surface, the darker it will be... and vice versa. Even if the bitumen has nothing to adhere to (the surface is smooth), if the bitumen remains on the surface for a long time, it will darken... not because the wood grain is filled, but because the varnish acts like a varnish. That is, very small particles will remain on the surface if the solvent doesn't mechanically lift them off the surface during rubbing or if it evaporates.
9. If the surface is large and it's impossible to apply the bitumen all at once, spots or transition lines may appear. But this isn't a problem. If you take a brush with solvent and rub the transitions or spots, the surface will smooth out evenly, becoming uniform in color.
10. I use Idea Patina 710 Patinatura Bitume - Bitumen Patina. I dilute it with odorless solvent for oil-based paints. The resulting odor is generally tolerable (though it should still be used in a ventilated area). Other bitumens are very smelly, downright strong. After applying the solvent, shiny spots sometimes appear on wood (especially on very smooth surfaces). Remember to wipe them off periodically until they disappear completely.
12. Technique. How I do it.
First, I dip a medium-sized brush into the solution (stir it first, but don't shake it) and squeeze out most of the solvent on the sides of the bottle to prevent drips. Then I apply the bitumen to the surface and rub it in, filling corners, joints, and crevices. Another important factor is the time the bitumen sits on the surface before removing it. This needs to be tested on samples. As stated earlier, all these factors affect the time. But first, it's best to apply a thin, non-dark layer for a short period of time, then add more if needed. You should also monitor the surface, not letting certain areas dry too quickly to avoid blotchiness. Then, use a second, dry brush to wipe off excess bitumen, constantly wiping the brush on a napkin (so it stays dry and absorbs the bitumen). Essentially, apply the bitumen with one brush and wipe off the excess with the other. Experience will tell you when to wipe off the excess with a napkin. Doing this immediately will remove the entire effect. If the bitumen remains on the surface for a long time, you won't be able to remove it. But remember, if you feel the effect is excessive, apply solvent with a brush, rub it in, and then wipe off almost all the bitumen with a napkin. Repeat the process if you've removed almost all of it.
I apply bitumen first to the main surface (for example, the deck) and then separately to the other elements (gratings, bits, etc.). Then I secure the parts to the deck. Then, I add bitumen to the joints between the parts and the deck with a fine brush (this also applies to the hull if it's on the outside of the model). I leave a little extra bitumen in the joints and evenly blend the rest into the surrounding tone. This creates the effect of enhancing the dark tones in the corners. It also gives me more control when doing everything separately first. You can also pre-tint the areas on the deck under the guns a little more to naturally accentuate the darkness underneath.
13. I recommend coating samples, and especially the finished product, testing it in different lighting conditions. Because under artificial light, it may look different, but under daylight, it may appear different. Under strong direct light, the surface may appear lighter, but in low light, it can be very dark. After coating, it's essential to check everything and, if necessary, remove any excess. Otherwise, there's no other way to do it without mechanical treatment.
14. And finally, there are two options. Option 1 is a more pronounced texture and a darker look. Option 2 is a light tint... and everyone chooses what they prefer.
Below, I'll show my results for option 1. Since the lower deck will be practically invisible, I decided to go for a more intense museum-style tint to see if it would suit me or just a light tint. The surface was polished with 320 grit and 000 grit steel wool. However, the wool couldn't penetrate the corners well, so they're not as smooth as the center, and that's important! Plus, I applied the oils not with a brush, but with a semi-dry cloth, which also didn't penetrate the corners well, resulting in less oil in the corners... and that's also important; you'll understand why later. In the corner of the photographs it will be indicated that a certain oil (Tung or Danish) was applied before the bitumen.
The photos above and below clearly show that the oil not only affects
the overall color of the wood, but also that, even with the same wood
treatment and oil application method, Bitumen adheres less well to Tung
Oil than to Danish Oil. Danish Oil has a more pronounced texture.
And in the photo below you can see that if the part was poorly polished, all the flaws will appear on it.
It's important to keep in mind that the entire lower deck is assembled from scrap material, especially the walls... Also, unfortunately, photographs can't accurately convey the color, shade, or degree of darkness. Some have black surfaces, others are lighter, or brown or gray. Therefore, I'll show different ones to give a general impression. And the hull has a different shade...
А этот оттенок вообще другой...
So, in essence, the colors and shades in the three groups of photographs are completely different... from reddish-beige to gray to reddish-brown... But the most annoying thing is that none of these colors convey the original shade, which is a shame. Although there are some similar tones in the first and last photos, it is difficult to say for sure, but the gray and very bright brown ones are definitely not the same.
24.04.2026
Interior lighting. (test)
Although I want to make the second hull museum-style, I want to make this project even brighter...
I want to install interior lighting in the cabins.
Initially, I wanted to install a few LEDs (these ones from AliExpress)... but it's a good thing I ordered flexible tape (this one,
also from AliExpress. It's a warm 2700K). Because the LEDs turned out
to be sооооo dim, I couldn't see anything. Yes, there shouldn't have
been much light, since there was no electricity back then, and the only
light source was a kerosene lamp or candles. But the LEDs turned out to
be very weak. The tape, however, worked perfectly, as pictured below.
2. Therefore, I'll either order a USB adapter or simply solder the wires to the USB port.
3. Then I'll solder these wires to the brass holders that I previously glued into the case.
4. Bolts will be screwed into these holders through the columns and will secure the case to the stand.
5. Wires with a Type-C port (this one is from AliExpress) will be connected to these bolts, which will be glued into the stand.
6. A wire will be connected to this Type-C port like a regular phone. The wire can be powered from either a wall outlet or a power bank, if I ever get to an exhibition.
I'll order two more of these strips, each 30 cm long, so that each strip will be long enough to cover the entire length of the frame, from the first grating to the last. I want to install two LED strips, but since two will produce too much light, I'll only partially cover part of the strip, leaving the other half lit. Why two then? To be on the safe side. Even if something happens to one, the other will at least provide partial illumination; I doubt they'll both die at the same time. LEDs are very durable, especially when used very rarely. I think they'll last for about 100 years. Moreover, the manufacturer claims up to 80,000 hours...
These are just tests so far. The LED strip is barely holding on, and I just wanted to see how it would look, but to me... there's something about that warm light...
The thing is, there will be a staircase here, and this grating won't be
visible because of it, but at least I'll know it's there, ahahaha))
One downside... I'll have to wait another month for the bulbs from AliExpress... it'll be interminable...
25.04.2026
More tests... this time, nails (plugs) on the deck.
While 100,500 processes are paused for various reasons, I decided to finish the deck. But...
...I really didn't like the visualization of the nails. On the hull, it's excellent (since the toothpicks weren't cut flush), but on the deck, when they're cut flush, there's no clear shape, and not all the nails are visible at all... That is, at certain angles, some seem to be missing (marked in red in the photo below), and many have no recognizable shape at all (anything not in the green oval).
Yes, we all know that the nails were covered with wooden plugs made from
the same wood as the board... and what's more, they had the same grain
as the board. This was to prevent the wood from wearing away and the end
of the plug from cracking or swelling. Essentially, these plugs were
installed very tightly through resin, a layer that practically
disappeared during use.
It's logical that at any scale, these plugs would be completely
invisible. But a model is a work of art, and we want to show off the
detail. It's more appropriate to make these plugs have a low contrast,
meaning they don't stand out too much. But I was still bothered by the
fact that they weren't all clear and visible... so I started
experimenting.
Then I decided to color the toothpicks with pencil graphite, hoping the rim would be small...
So, I didn't like any of these options. So, I tried a different approach.
I dipped the tip of a toothpick in liquid CA and immediately wiped it off and fixed it in the hole.
In the end, I achieved a repeatable shape and the same color for all the
plugs. Between the red arrows are the belts without glue, between the
green arrows are the belts with glue.
I agree that even with glue, not all the plugs are visible everywhere,
but these are isolated cases, and at least they are all round... But
without glue, it's like a lottery...
I hope the deck will be ready soon...
27.04.2026
Deck Nailing (imitation of plugs).
First, I made the joints on the boards with a straight blade. But since the power boards (which are a different color) were in short supply, I had to make real joints on them and then lay out the planks from there. Unfortunately, I made a small mistake, but in the end, I moved it to the place where the guns are... and it won't be visible. Although I blamed myself for it all day...
Next comes the marking and the needling.
This process is the most important and painstaking... any mistake here is a visual flaw in the entire composition.
Then, carefully drill with a 0.5 mm drill bit.
A few close-ups for those closely monitoring the construction:
After sanding, I always check the surface for defects...
Here's the final result.
Without oil the nails are still hard to see, but I'm already happy with the result.
28.04.2026
Waterways. 1/2
First, I dismantled the temporary waterway and made a simple jig to create a new one.
In order to understand which cut would look better, I tried it from different sides.
This jig will be needed for the second set (for the first hull).
Next, I bent the blanks using a simple method. I dipped them in boiling
water and then ironed them into the desired shape. I didn't try too
hard, the main thing was to bend them where the radius was largest.
After removing the deck stop, I installed the deck inside the hull.
The rest is in the next part...
30.04.2026
Waterways. 2/2
To make adjustments, I made a removable keelson top. Now I need to make room for it in the waterways.
I added a couple more plugs to the outer chord of the 0.5mm planks (as usual). And two 0.8mm plugs at the ends of the waterways. These plugs are larger because they cover bolts, not nails, which secure the waterways (top to bottom) to the beams and (from inside to outside) to the frames. This creates a unified framework, as the waterways weren't merely decorative, but were crucial for achieving the hull's longitudinal and transverse strength.
Scuppers (inner part).
So, what are scuppers? They are lead pipes through which water that entered the ship's side exited. Since the Alert had a very low side, this detail was very important. Ships of this class could have 4-5 pairs of scuppers.
In the photo below, I've indicated the positions of the pumps and the lowest points on the deck (I used balls, and they found these points). These points were located under the gun ports, where scuppers couldn't be located. Therefore, I didn't move the second-to-last scuppers aft (to reduce their number to four pairs), but rather placed them as close as possible to these points. However, this left a large area aft (especially considering the low frame of the rear grille). Therefore, I had to add a fifth pair (the rear one). But given the small diameter of the scuppers (to avoid brittleness of the planks they pass through) and the low sides (which didn't provide protection from waves at high heels), five pairs is quite realistic. Let me remind you that these details are essentially absent from the anatomy, so all planning is a reconstruction based on a similar situation of similar ships.
So, there's a 1.6 mm hole. It's angled, not tied to any specific value, since the scuppers will be composite: internal (on the deck) and external (on the hull). Today, we'll be talking about the internal ones.
I used 1.6mm brass tube.
And here's the result:
It's not a given that these elements will be very visible, as there will
be cannonball holders above them. That's why I didn't bother with the
funnel shape, flaring the metal... this shape is more than sufficient at
this scale.
Next comes the remaining 8 pieces... and creating the outer parts that
will be fixed to the hull. This is also a consideration. Scuppers,
especially on low-sided ships, had check valves. These are rectangular
pieces of leather that covered the openings. They dangled freely and
easily let water pass from the inside out, but when a wave hit from the
outside, they sealed the pipe tightly, preventing water from spurting
out. So the question is... how to implement this. Should I make this
valve... then it would cover the opening and all the work on the
scupper... Or should I ignore the valve and show the design of this
element. The downside of the valve is that it's difficult to show it
well, especially at this scale... so I'm more inclined to go without the
valve. Considering that many models don't always have scuppers)))
03.05.2026
Made 3 more remaining Scuppers...
And I made all the Scuppers on the hull in the same way.
I checked how the pipe would look flush with the boards, and I wasn't very happy with it. So I made it with a slightly protruding edge, which is more logical, so that water will fall off the rim and not run down the side.
The details are not large and are practically invisible in the general plan, but in macro mode it’s a different matter:
Photographed in the setting sun - the color is a little warmer than usual.
Next...