Chapter 4. Painting. Gratings. Rails. Chainwales. Rudder.
06.2023
Oil and bitumen tests.
Initially, I planned to apply teak oil, just as Shevelev does—but!
I’ll say this right off the bat: the results didn't satisfy me. Multiple coats of teak oil produce a very high gloss. A single coat, diluted with oil-paint thinner, leaves behind shiny spots. Glue doesn't adhere well to the surface, and overall, I wasn't happy with the experience.
Linseed oil also yielded disappointing results; over time, the wood yellowed significantly beneath it(((
And even though the color didn't look bad at first, a year later the samples had yellowed to a straw-like shade!
I’ll say this right off the bat: the results didn't satisfy me. Multiple coats of teak oil produce a very high gloss. A single coat, diluted with oil-paint thinner, leaves behind shiny spots. Glue doesn't adhere well to the surface, and overall, I wasn't happy with the experience.
Linseed oil also yielded disappointing results; over time, the wood yellowed significantly beneath it(((
And even though the color didn't look bad at first, a year later the samples had yellowed to a straw-like shade!
At first, I thought it was pear veneer, but it is most likely alder—which explains why it turned so yellow after three coats of linseed oil. Rotating the workpiece 180 degrees caused the wood's color to change dramatically.
So, pay attention to this factor!
I decided against simulating the nails, as it would be inappropriate at this scale; the repeatability is very low, and it would require a great deal of work.
Next, I made a test piece of the hull itself.
1- Dried pear wood (though it is most likely alder). 2- Finished with linseed oil, three coats. 3- Enegri. 4- Pink pear wood. 5- Daru.
The first thing I did was mask off a section with painter's tape to replicate the black stripes on the body during painting. I painted it just as I had planned—using a spray can of matte black enamel paint.
What I liked about it is that it’s truly matte (which was important to me), dries very quickly, applies easily and evenly, and has incredible staying power; plus, even with a thin coat, the texture of the fibers remains perfectly visible. The only downside is the awful smell—you really need to use it outdoors.
At different angles the black color is slightly different, but this is only in the photo. In person, it has a very nice deep matte color.
Another thing I liked was the absence of runs or that artificial, toy-like sheen; in short, I’ve resolved the issue of black streaks for myself.
At first, things looked pretty good with linseed oil... but! A year later, the colors had changed significantly, and I completely decided against using linseed oil due to its tendency to darken dark wood species and turn light woods very yellow. Still, initially, the results were actually quite decent...
Once it had dried, I decided to try out the bitumen coating right away. I used the kind Shevelev recommended.
But I didn't like the result... Daru wood is porous, and it absorbed the stain heavily, turning everything into a gray blotch... So, I abandoned that idea. I plan to try it on pear wood for my next project, but it doesn't work on Daru or alder. I’ll likely just apply a single coat of Danish oil, wipe it dry immediately, and keep the body out of direct sunlight (I keep it in a display case with UV-protective museum-grade film). I think preserving the lighter tones is the best approach here.
In the meantime, let's move on—specifically, to the painting stage. To start, we need to thoroughly mask off everything that isn't going to be painted.
Painting.
So, pay attention to this factor!
I decided against simulating the nails, as it would be inappropriate at this scale; the repeatability is very low, and it would require a great deal of work.
Next, I made a test piece of the hull itself.
1- Dried pear wood (though it is most likely alder). 2- Finished with linseed oil, three coats. 3- Enegri. 4- Pink pear wood. 5- Daru.
The first thing I did was mask off a section with painter's tape to replicate the black stripes on the body during painting. I painted it just as I had planned—using a spray can of matte black enamel paint.
What I liked about it is that it’s truly matte (which was important to me), dries very quickly, applies easily and evenly, and has incredible staying power; plus, even with a thin coat, the texture of the fibers remains perfectly visible. The only downside is the awful smell—you really need to use it outdoors.
At different angles the black color is slightly different, but this is only in the photo. In person, it has a very nice deep matte color.
Another thing I liked was the absence of runs or that artificial, toy-like sheen; in short, I’ve resolved the issue of black streaks for myself.
At first, things looked pretty good with linseed oil... but! A year later, the colors had changed significantly, and I completely decided against using linseed oil due to its tendency to darken dark wood species and turn light woods very yellow. Still, initially, the results were actually quite decent...
Once it had dried, I decided to try out the bitumen coating right away. I used the kind Shevelev recommended.
But I didn't like the result... Daru wood is porous, and it absorbed the stain heavily, turning everything into a gray blotch... So, I abandoned that idea. I plan to try it on pear wood for my next project, but it doesn't work on Daru or alder. I’ll likely just apply a single coat of Danish oil, wipe it dry immediately, and keep the body out of direct sunlight (I keep it in a display case with UV-protective museum-grade film). I think preserving the lighter tones is the best approach here.
In the meantime, let's move on—specifically, to the painting stage. To start, we need to thoroughly mask off everything that isn't going to be painted.
Painting.
Well, let's move on. It's a pity that not many people responded to evaluate the bitumen patination, but oh well...
So, about the painting. First, you need to carefully mask off all areas that won't be painted using tape. This must be done very precisely and thoroughly, as any paint drips will be difficult to remove and time-consuming.
As I mentioned earlier, I used matte black enamel spray paint. I was more than satisfied with the result. The positives are that the paint is truly matte, doesn’t run, dries quickly, and can be easily scraped off if you need to remove any excess. However, the only downside is the strong odor—it definitely needs to be applied outdoors.
The stripes turned out to be smooth lines and symmetrical on both sides.
And finally, the hull is starting to resemble what I’ve been aiming for. I’m really liking the color combination. The daru fits perfectly between the black stripes.
02.2024
So, about the painting. First, you need to carefully mask off all areas that won't be painted using tape. This must be done very precisely and thoroughly, as any paint drips will be difficult to remove and time-consuming.
As I mentioned earlier, I used matte black enamel spray paint. I was more than satisfied with the result. The positives are that the paint is truly matte, doesn’t run, dries quickly, and can be easily scraped off if you need to remove any excess. However, the only downside is the strong odor—it definitely needs to be applied outdoors.
The stripes turned out to be smooth lines and symmetrical on both sides.
And finally, the hull is starting to resemble what I’ve been aiming for. I’m really liking the color combination. The daru fits perfectly between the black stripes.
02.2024
Gratings.
After a six-month break, I’ve returned to the shipbuilding process. I decided to slowly start working on the decks, and logically, I began with the lower one. It features large grates with ladders, so that’s where I focused my attention.
I didn’t have the time or desire to make the grates from scratch, so I decided to order pre-made ones from a site similar to eBay...
After a test order, assembly, and applying oil, I was more than satisfied with the result. So, I ordered enough grates for all the grilles on the lower and middle decks, as well as for the head platform.
A tip for assembling grates! Once you get the hang of it, the assembly isn’t difficult. My scale is 1mm, so it's very convenient to calculate proportions and sizes.
First, place the top and bottom combs, then fit all the crosspieces on top of them.
Then, apply tape on top.
After that, flip it over, as the tape will now reinforce our structure...
...and lay down the longitudinal combs.
This assembly method makes it convenient to keep everything together and speed up the process. Anyone who has built something like this before will understand the usual challenge...
After that, glue everything together with any instant adhesive to ensure the combs don't fall off during handling. PVA glue won't work—just trust me on this. Superglue may leave a white residue, but it can be sanded off during finishing. PVA, on the other hand, leaves a mark on the wood, and in areas where it isn’t sanded off, this spot will stand out after applying oil. I’ll show an example of this later and explain it in detail.
After the glue dries, you can start shaping the part correctly. It’s best to use tools that will help you achieve a precise 90-degree angle.
Then I glued the frame parts (2 and 3 mm) to the grid. First in one direction, and after aligning everything, I glued the parts in the other projection.
This procedure is repeated until all the grids are assembled.
Then, give the parts a more finished look by trimming off the excess ends.
These are not yet the finished products.
The grates still need to be sanded down to the correct height and the edges rounded off.
Now, a bit about the ladders.
The frame can be glued together using painter’s tape. It holds all four walls in place while the glue dries.
Speaking of glue... I'll share a small tip at the end of the post.
As for the fabrication process, I think it's more or less clear from the photos.
So, the grates have been sanded, and it’s time to fit them to the hull.
The sanding is not final yet. I still need to round off the corners and perfect them.
Plus, I still need to make the bases for the cannonballs, which were placed around the entire perimeter of the grates.
The far ladder will barely be visible, but I decided to make it not as a simple imitation but with an actual staircase, for which I had to create an opening.
Since there is no deck below, the bottom part of the ladder will be suspended in the air. However, none of this will be visible. Only the upper part will be slightly visible. The other two ladders rest on the false lower deck, which I painted black, and it will also not be visible.
And after the final finishing, the gratings will look like this. All that remains is to add the stands for the cannonballs.
And the only thing missing will be the cradles for the nuclear warheads.
But we will return to them later. These are just rough drafts.
I made the ladders using a special template. Its design is simple and straightforward.
First, all the steps are inserted into the slots, then shifted to one side, and glued to the edges of the longitudinal plank. After that, the steps are shifted to the other side, and the process is repeated with the opposite side.
We temporarily assemble everything to see how it will look. In my opinion, it looks good. These are the lowest steps, and they will hardly be visible. The ones that will be on the upper decks I plan to make slightly differently.
03.2024
Rails.
Completion of the planking. The end of a massive part of the work. And this era is concluded with the rails (shaped planks). I made them using the simplest method, which doesn’t require a router or any special tools—just a piece of sturdy steel, in my case, a saw blade.
On this saw blade (or you can use a file, though it takes longer), I used a rotary tool to carve out the profile of these shaped planks. (I'm a dentist, so a rotary tool is a familiar instrument for me))).
Then, the plank needs to be attached to a flat board using double-sided tape. Using longitudinal motions, scrape off all the excess wood from the plank until it takes the correct profile and the blade (scraper) meets the table. It's important to keep the tool strictly perpendicular and move it in one smooth, uninterrupted motion.
I made one plank from pink pearwood and two from boxwood. I oiled the pearwood and one of the boxwood pieces and compared them.
I liked the pearwood much more in terms of its combination with the bulwark. The boxwood became very yellow under the oil, which would have stood out too much from the overall tone in this case. So, I was fully convinced in my choice of pink pearwood for all the shaped planks.
Next, I began experimenting with the rounded part of the rails. I glued the blank to the shaft of the circular saw.
And with a small homemade chisel, I carved a round blank.
Then I sanded off all the excess around the perimeter.
And in the end, I got a fairly repeatable round rail (if it can be called that). Yes, they aren't exactly like the original ones, but carving them in the original shape would have been problematic. Plus, these will still look respectable.
Next, I made thin decorative slats. Also out of pink pear wood.
The planking already had prepared slots for these thin strips, so they easily fit into their 0.5 mm grooves.
Following the same principle, I began gluing the 3 mm wide rails, which form the waist of the channels. In other words, these rails will be positioned between the channels.
Above, I glued in 4 mm wide rails and round decorative pieces.
On this saw blade (or you can use a file, though it takes longer), I used a rotary tool to carve out the profile of these shaped planks. (I'm a dentist, so a rotary tool is a familiar instrument for me))).
Then, the plank needs to be attached to a flat board using double-sided tape. Using longitudinal motions, scrape off all the excess wood from the plank until it takes the correct profile and the blade (scraper) meets the table. It's important to keep the tool strictly perpendicular and move it in one smooth, uninterrupted motion.
I made one plank from pink pearwood and two from boxwood. I oiled the pearwood and one of the boxwood pieces and compared them.
I liked the pearwood much more in terms of its combination with the bulwark. The boxwood became very yellow under the oil, which would have stood out too much from the overall tone in this case. So, I was fully convinced in my choice of pink pearwood for all the shaped planks.
Next, I began experimenting with the rounded part of the rails. I glued the blank to the shaft of the circular saw.
And with a small homemade chisel, I carved a round blank.
Then I sanded off all the excess around the perimeter.
And in the end, I got a fairly repeatable round rail (if it can be called that). Yes, they aren't exactly like the original ones, but carving them in the original shape would have been problematic. Plus, these will still look respectable.
Next, I made thin decorative slats. Also out of pink pear wood.
The planking already had prepared slots for these thin strips, so they easily fit into their 0.5 mm grooves.
Following the same principle, I began gluing the 3 mm wide rails, which form the waist of the channels. In other words, these rails will be positioned between the channels.
Above, I glued in 4 mm wide rails and round decorative pieces.
Сhannels.
So, let's continue our building diary.
Wrapping up the issue with the rails, I made the CHAIN WALES (rustlijn). For now, I’ve only cut them out in terms of perimeter and thickness, made pins for reinforcing the connection with the hull, and that’s it for now. I will return to them later. I still need to make the mounting spots for the CHAIN PLATES, the lower supports, and paint them.
For now, I’ve only test-fitted them in their places to see if everything fits well.
04.2024
As the weather warmed up, the sun beat down increasingly hard on the room—specifically on the spot where the model stands. I started thinking about protecting the body, since I didn't know when I’d get around to oiling it, and I was getting tired of constantly covering it with cloths. The first step was ordering an aquarium made of 4mm tempered glass, measuring 1000mm (L) x 250mm (W) x 350mm (H).
If you flip it over, it makes an excellent display case. I also ordered a base for the whole setup, featuring slots to hold the glass. However, I still had to glue corner pieces around the perimeter, as the slots didn't provide enough stability to prevent shifting.
But most importantly! I applied a protective museum-grade film with a UV filter to the outside of the glass. Now, even with direct sunlight hitting the model, fading isn't a concern. I tested it, and the model doesn't even heat up in the sun behind this "cover." And knowing how slowly I build, I don't think I'll need to replace it anytime soon with a new, full-scale case large enough to accommodate the masts as well.
Next, I decided to make the grating near the main mast. They will be removable, meaning the frames will be fixed to the hull while the gratings can be taken out.
To start, I made the gratings with cutouts for the rigging beams (I don’t remember what they’re called), and then I glued the frames around them.
As I mentioned, the gratings with frames are removable. I just need to round off the frames a bit and glue them into the hull.
Wrapping up the issue with the rails, I made the CHAIN WALES (rustlijn). For now, I’ve only cut them out in terms of perimeter and thickness, made pins for reinforcing the connection with the hull, and that’s it for now. I will return to them later. I still need to make the mounting spots for the CHAIN PLATES, the lower supports, and paint them.
For now, I’ve only test-fitted them in their places to see if everything fits well.
04.2024
As the weather warmed up, the sun beat down increasingly hard on the room—specifically on the spot where the model stands. I started thinking about protecting the body, since I didn't know when I’d get around to oiling it, and I was getting tired of constantly covering it with cloths. The first step was ordering an aquarium made of 4mm tempered glass, measuring 1000mm (L) x 250mm (W) x 350mm (H).
If you flip it over, it makes an excellent display case. I also ordered a base for the whole setup, featuring slots to hold the glass. However, I still had to glue corner pieces around the perimeter, as the slots didn't provide enough stability to prevent shifting.
But most importantly! I applied a protective museum-grade film with a UV filter to the outside of the glass. Now, even with direct sunlight hitting the model, fading isn't a concern. I tested it, and the model doesn't even heat up in the sun behind this "cover." And knowing how slowly I build, I don't think I'll need to replace it anytime soon with a new, full-scale case large enough to accommodate the masts as well.
Next, I decided to make the grating near the main mast. They will be removable, meaning the frames will be fixed to the hull while the gratings can be taken out.
To start, I made the gratings with cutouts for the rigging beams (I don’t remember what they’re called), and then I glued the frames around them.
As I mentioned, the gratings with frames are removable. I just need to round off the frames a bit and glue them into the hull.
Rudder blade.
Let’s continue. I made the rudder from a piece of plywood, veneered on both sides with pear wood. First on one side, and after profiling – on the other. I used a sanding machine to taper the rudder towards the bottom. I think the series of photos below will make it clear how and what I did. The only thing I used a rotary tool for was to make indentations for the hinges. To sand the surface parallel to each other, I glued a perpendicular base, which allowed the rudder to slide along the sanding machine's table.
And after painting, the rudder looked like this.
All of this could have been done from a single piece of pear wood. But I didn't have one like that at the time, and I don't see the point of doing so for a piece that’s going to be painted—especially when two-thirds of the steering wheel is covered in copper.
Next...
And after painting, the rudder looked like this.
All of this could have been done from a single piece of pear wood. But I didn't have one like that at the time, and I don't see the point of doing so for a piece that’s going to be painted—especially when two-thirds of the steering wheel is covered in copper.
Next...